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Rb26 Resin Filled Blocks

N1GTR

By N1GTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
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Hey guys

Last week i was speaking quickly with someone about how i can make an RB26 block stronger, we didnt get into price or anything like that though.

Ive bought another RB26 motor that over the next little while ill be building for big, big power

Who here has done the resin filled block? Any words of wisdom from those guys would be great :pirate:

Another thing thats on my mind about it - is it going to be more effective to resin fill an 05U block than rather just getting a 24U block and using that without resin?

Lastly - how much does the process cost?

Cheers guys :D

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N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

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Yeah, dont worry mate, the only part ill have to do with is paying the bill and driving it

But still have virtually no info on the actual process, benefits (compared to buying a 24u block), costs etc

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GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

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Posted (edited)

Benefits will depend on how far you fill it. You can still street drive it if you only fill to the bottom of the water pump. If you fully fill it its only drag after that. Just make sure its washed out with acid to give a good surface for the resin to adhere to. Also depending on the product you use, you may have to line bore the block to get it all square, but that depends. Its a good idea tho if block rigidity of the lower section needs to be better. Price I cant remember what i was quoted, but i know the block is supposed to sit for a substantial time after filling.

Edited by GTR1993
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datsqik Enthusiast

datsqik

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Ive done a few rb blocks using Hardblok which is designed to have the same expansion rates as cast iron and is very permanent. Ive done 1/4 fills and 1/2 fills. The 1/4 fills seem fine on the street as far as cooling is concerned. The 1/2 fills have been done for the drags so I have no idea how they fair for a daily driven car but I'd imagine they would cope fine. Hardblok is just like tile cement and you mix it with water using a power drill with a paint mixer attached. I use a small funnel that I jam into water gallery holes in the top of the block then just pour it in a bit at a time and work it in with some wire. Once you've poured some into each hole you can just work it all the way around the cylinders with the wire. Its messy crap and bit of a pain to do but its not that hard to do it yourself.

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shanef Grand Master

shanef

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Ive done a few rb blocks using Hardblok which is designed to have the same expansion rates as cast iron and is very permanent. Ive done 1/4 fills and 1/2 fills. The 1/4 fills seem fine on the street as far as cooling is concerned. The 1/2 fills have been done for the drags so I have no idea how they fair for a daily driven car but I'd imagine they would cope fine. Hardblok is just like tile cement and you mix it with water using a power drill with a paint mixer attached. I use a small funnel that I jam into water gallery holes in the top of the block then just pour it in a bit at a time and work it in with some wire. Once you've poured some into each hole you can just work it all the way around the cylinders with the wire. Its messy crap and bit of a pain to do but its not that hard to do it yourself.

when u say 1/4 or 1/2 filled, where on the block are those measurments? i.e is 1/4 filled to the bottom of the welsche plugs?

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datsqik Enthusiast

datsqik

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A 1/4 fill is pretty much the bottom of the welsh plugs. The main reason we did this is that we found that some blocks were cracking internally between 3 and 4 where an oil gallery runs from one side of the block to the other causing oil to mix into the water.

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N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

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Benefits will depend on how far you fill it. You can still street drive it if you only fill to the bottom of the water pump. If you fully fill it its only drag after that. Just make sure its washed out with acid to give a good surface for the resin to adhere to. Also depending on the product you use, you may have to line bore the block to get it all square, but that depends. Its a good idea tho if block rigidity of the lower section needs to be better. Price I cant remember what i was quoted, but i know the block is supposed to sit for a substantial time after filling.

Needs to be street driven, what sort of time would you call substantial? Days/weeks/months?

Ive done a few rb blocks using Hardblok which is designed to have the same expansion rates as cast iron and is very permanent. Ive done 1/4 fills and 1/2 fills. The 1/4 fills seem fine on the street as far as cooling is concerned. The 1/2 fills have been done for the drags so I have no idea how they fair for a daily driven car but I'd imagine they would cope fine. Hardblok is just like tile cement and you mix it with water using a power drill with a paint mixer attached. I use a small funnel that I jam into water gallery holes in the top of the block then just pour it in a bit at a time and work it in with some wire. Once you've poured some into each hole you can just work it all the way around the cylinders with the wire. Its messy crap and bit of a pain to do but its not that hard to do it yourself.

Thanks for that, i wont be doing it myself though

From the 1/4fills have any of those blocks failed? I assume they're all running big power

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datsqik Enthusiast

datsqik

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You can bore a block 24hours after using Hardblok and use it straight after that. The 1/4 fill block runs low 11 and is daily driven. It was mainly done to stop oil getting into the water not for overall strength like the 1/2 and 3/4 fill blocks.

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N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

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How much power are you realistically looking at making?

On a side note.... Looks like I aint selling my gt block to anyone!!!! :D

450 awkw and ill be happy

You can bore a block 24hours after using Hardblok and use it straight after that. The 1/4 fill block runs low 11 and is daily driven. It was mainly done to stop oil getting into the water not for overall strength like the 1/2 and 3/4 fill blocks.

Cool thanks :D

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BOOSTD Mentor

BOOSTD

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A 1/4 fill is pretty much the bottom of the welsh plugs. The main reason we did this is that we found that some blocks were cracking internally between 3 and 4 where an oil gallery runs from one side of the block to the other causing oil to mix into the water.

Would this be why some rb26 blocks leak coolant out the side above the oil outlet hole?(which is between 3-4) May explain why my radiator fluid looks like the Exon Valdize shipping lane and the coolant out the side of the block.

btw. I'm not to fussed as I'm building a RB30/26 but I've seen a few rb26 motors with the leak out the side so this is quite interesting. :thumbsup:

I hope the rb30 doesn't have the same issue.....

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datsqik Enthusiast

datsqik

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I have seen and heard of many rb26 blocks that crack both internally and or externally which is the reason most people look for the stronger N1 blocks.

Ive only used the Hardblok product and usually leave it for a week before machining but they say it can be used after 24 hours.

As far as the rb30 blocks are concerned they dont seem to suffer from the same problem but I have heard of them cracking between 5 and 6 under extreme loads. Ive seen some guys make up a plate that bolts toward the rear of the block for added strength. I would imagine that when the rb30 block is used with a rb26 sump and adapter plate that this would add some strength to that area anyway. Ive just done a 30 block for a gtr which should push over 1000hp so I added a 1/2 fill of Hardblok for a bit more security. Being an all out drag car cooling shouldnt be an issue.

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Mik Experienced

Mik

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holly shit you got a damn good price. Highest I have seen is $6000 in japan.

I only paid $4k for mine. And that was in Australia from a reputable workshop. Seems I got quite the bargain. I could have got one from Japan for just over 250k JPY at the time.

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