Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Resin Filled Blocks

N1GTR

By N1GTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

Last week i was speaking quickly with someone about how i can make an RB26 block stronger, we didnt get into price or anything like that though.

Ive bought another RB26 motor that over the next little while ill be building for big, big power

Who here has done the resin filled block? Any words of wisdom from those guys would be great :pirate:

Another thing thats on my mind about it - is it going to be more effective to resin fill an 05U block than rather just getting a 24U block and using that without resin?

Lastly - how much does the process cost?

Cheers guys :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210084-rb26-resin-filled-blocks/
Share on other sites
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, dont worry mate, the only part ill have to do with is paying the bill and driving it

But still have virtually no info on the actual process, benefits (compared to buying a 24u block), costs etc

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted (edited)

Benefits will depend on how far you fill it. You can still street drive it if you only fill to the bottom of the water pump. If you fully fill it its only drag after that. Just make sure its washed out with acid to give a good surface for the resin to adhere to. Also depending on the product you use, you may have to line bore the block to get it all square, but that depends. Its a good idea tho if block rigidity of the lower section needs to be better. Price I cant remember what i was quoted, but i know the block is supposed to sit for a substantial time after filling.

Edited by GTR1993
datsqik Enthusiast

datsqik

Posted
Posted

Ive done a few rb blocks using Hardblok which is designed to have the same expansion rates as cast iron and is very permanent. Ive done 1/4 fills and 1/2 fills. The 1/4 fills seem fine on the street as far as cooling is concerned. The 1/2 fills have been done for the drags so I have no idea how they fair for a daily driven car but I'd imagine they would cope fine. Hardblok is just like tile cement and you mix it with water using a power drill with a paint mixer attached. I use a small funnel that I jam into water gallery holes in the top of the block then just pour it in a bit at a time and work it in with some wire. Once you've poured some into each hole you can just work it all the way around the cylinders with the wire. Its messy crap and bit of a pain to do but its not that hard to do it yourself.

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Ive done a few rb blocks using Hardblok which is designed to have the same expansion rates as cast iron and is very permanent. Ive done 1/4 fills and 1/2 fills. The 1/4 fills seem fine on the street as far as cooling is concerned. The 1/2 fills have been done for the drags so I have no idea how they fair for a daily driven car but I'd imagine they would cope fine. Hardblok is just like tile cement and you mix it with water using a power drill with a paint mixer attached. I use a small funnel that I jam into water gallery holes in the top of the block then just pour it in a bit at a time and work it in with some wire. Once you've poured some into each hole you can just work it all the way around the cylinders with the wire. Its messy crap and bit of a pain to do but its not that hard to do it yourself.

when u say 1/4 or 1/2 filled, where on the block are those measurments? i.e is 1/4 filled to the bottom of the welsche plugs?

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Benefits will depend on how far you fill it. You can still street drive it if you only fill to the bottom of the water pump. If you fully fill it its only drag after that. Just make sure its washed out with acid to give a good surface for the resin to adhere to. Also depending on the product you use, you may have to line bore the block to get it all square, but that depends. Its a good idea tho if block rigidity of the lower section needs to be better. Price I cant remember what i was quoted, but i know the block is supposed to sit for a substantial time after filling.

Needs to be street driven, what sort of time would you call substantial? Days/weeks/months?

Ive done a few rb blocks using Hardblok which is designed to have the same expansion rates as cast iron and is very permanent. Ive done 1/4 fills and 1/2 fills. The 1/4 fills seem fine on the street as far as cooling is concerned. The 1/2 fills have been done for the drags so I have no idea how they fair for a daily driven car but I'd imagine they would cope fine. Hardblok is just like tile cement and you mix it with water using a power drill with a paint mixer attached. I use a small funnel that I jam into water gallery holes in the top of the block then just pour it in a bit at a time and work it in with some wire. Once you've poured some into each hole you can just work it all the way around the cylinders with the wire. Its messy crap and bit of a pain to do but its not that hard to do it yourself.

Thanks for that, i wont be doing it myself though

From the 1/4fills have any of those blocks failed? I assume they're all running big power

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How much power are you realistically looking at making?

On a side note.... Looks like I aint selling my gt block to anyone!!!! :D

450 awkw and ill be happy

You can bore a block 24hours after using Hardblok and use it straight after that. The 1/4 fill block runs low 11 and is daily driven. It was mainly done to stop oil getting into the water not for overall strength like the 1/2 and 3/4 fill blocks.

Cool thanks :D

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted

When i talked to a place in Adelaide (rhemac) they liked to leave it for weeks, i looked on the net and some people like to leave it for months!

http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/008073.html

Im not sure how long it must be left tho.

BOOSTD Mentor

BOOSTD

Posted
Posted
A 1/4 fill is pretty much the bottom of the welsh plugs. The main reason we did this is that we found that some blocks were cracking internally between 3 and 4 where an oil gallery runs from one side of the block to the other causing oil to mix into the water.

Would this be why some rb26 blocks leak coolant out the side above the oil outlet hole?(which is between 3-4) May explain why my radiator fluid looks like the Exon Valdize shipping lane and the coolant out the side of the block.

btw. I'm not to fussed as I'm building a RB30/26 but I've seen a few rb26 motors with the leak out the side so this is quite interesting. :thumbsup:

I hope the rb30 doesn't have the same issue.....

datsqik Enthusiast

datsqik

Posted
Posted

I have seen and heard of many rb26 blocks that crack both internally and or externally which is the reason most people look for the stronger N1 blocks.

Ive only used the Hardblok product and usually leave it for a week before machining but they say it can be used after 24 hours.

As far as the rb30 blocks are concerned they dont seem to suffer from the same problem but I have heard of them cracking between 5 and 6 under extreme loads. Ive seen some guys make up a plate that bolts toward the rear of the block for added strength. I would imagine that when the rb30 block is used with a rb26 sump and adapter plate that this would add some strength to that area anyway. Ive just done a 30 block for a gtr which should push over 1000hp so I added a 1/2 fill of Hardblok for a bit more security. Being an all out drag car cooling shouldnt be an issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • JC71
      gauge needle removal

      By JC71 · Posted

      okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.  
×
×
  • Create New...