Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys not too sure where i should of asked this so just gonna ask it here. some ppl have told me if ya run ur gtr on rear wheel drive for too long f*ks it up! is this true? cheers

I cant see this being the case. I know if you modify the torque split and put too much to the fronts you can wear out the transfer case but seriously, the GTR's drive RWD most of the time anyhow..

-D

Only R32 GTR's and GTS4's can run in rwd. 33's and 34's will f*k up!

How come? Curious about this. I know you gotta remove the driveshaft for the front wheels if u wanna dyno the 33/34 gtr's but surely that shouldnt cause any long term damage? Wouldn't it just mean that more torque goes thru the gearbox to the tailshaft/diff? Or is it something to do with the transfer case?

Thanks

-Ben

Fuse box in the engine bay it will be one of the green ones.

Look on the lid of the fuse box and it will tell you which one the 4wd is and just pull that one out and then the 4wd light will come on on the dash once you start driving.

33's amd 34's have a 5% preload of torque on the front wheels so when u pull out the fuse for the attessa in 33's and 34's and start do drive off very soon you'll start to see smoke come out underneath of your car because the clutch packs in the frontdrive shaft have been rooted

33's amd 34's have a 5% preload of torque on the front wheels so when u pull out the fuse for the attessa in 33's and 34's and start do drive off very soon you'll start to see smoke come out underneath of your car because the clutch packs in the frontdrive shaft have been rooted

Hey Vince, you've got me a bit worried there now......so what if I pull the fuse and drop the centre shaft to do a few runs on a 2WD dyno?

Can it cause any probs doing this cos I've already done it on my R34 GTR.

I cant see the logic in this with regards to the R33 and R34's

The R32's are happy to be in 2wd all day long

I have seen shafts pulled out to run there GTR's on the dyno and have never heard of any damage coming from it..

for a while i was running my car in rwd, after a while the the 4wd light turned off and i noticed on the guage that it was still transfering toqure to the front?!?!

i was told that just buy pulling the fuse it can still engage 4wd if the hydrolic pressure builds up. the only way to go fail safe is to drop the shaft...can anyone confirm?

Edited by Turbz_13

I took the fuse out last night, drove the car to and from work and the 4WD light didnt come on, got alittle sideways doing a sharp u-turn so im guessing the 2WD has engaged, might put the fuse back in, just to be safe.

You may have pulled the wrong fuse, just make sure as the are blank spaces between some of the fuses.

If you pulled the correct one you should be able to light the tyres very easily if you have a strong clutch.

Hey Vince, you've got me a bit worried there now......so what if I pull the fuse and drop the centre shaft to do a few runs on a 2WD dyno?

Can it cause any probs doing this cos I've already done it on my R34 GTR.

hey mate sorry should have been more clear

yeah dropping the front drive shaft/centre shaft and pulling the fuse is fine

its just when u only take out the fuse and leave in the shafts it will fk up :domokun:

I took the fuse out last night, drove the car to and from work and the 4WD light didnt come on, got alittle sideways doing a sharp u-turn so im guessing the 2WD has engaged, might put the fuse back in, just to be safe.

hey buddy when u take out the atessa fuse the 4wd light should come up on your dash..its a yellow colour.. i know mine does in my 32 GTS4 and also in my mates 32 GTR

Yeh taken out the right one, taking off can definatly feel its in rwd and the car gets sideways really easily, whereas in awd it was alot harder, also the car doesnt corner as well lol. I'll go out and have a look for the 4wd light. What does taking out the anti-skid one do? anyone know?

hey mate sorry should have been more clear

yeah dropping the front drive shaft/centre shaft and pulling the fuse is fine

its just when u only take out the fuse and leave in the shafts it will fk up :P

Cool, that's what I thought. I was always under the impression that you have to drop shafts on the 33 & 34 GTR's but the 32 GTR's only need to have a fuse pulled fror a dyno run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...