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^ couldnt agree more mate!!

I love my car even more with this remap!!

Wish i did this 1.5 years ago when i was told about it lol

Just got my R32 tuned by Toshi a few days ago, very happy with the results! Much improved mid range and top end. Would easily recommend him to anyone :P

Please come to me.

I will check what type of ECU.

hey toshi

whats the story with 97 S1 RS Four Stagea

can you tune em?

  • 4 weeks later...
I wish you would come up to Brisbane.

Seems well worth it for the money.

How many people are interested in remapping?

Could have an ask around in the QLD section. GTST was one of them, could be a few more as the price seems very good.

how much for a second remap? eg get a first remap, then bigger turbo/injectors/afm upgrade, and need a second remap but already have the daughterboard installed?

Hi PWND

I sent PM.

bahanthich

I have not installed daughterboard to ECU.

Daughterboard cost is $700.

So I use H8 plcc.

This costs is $80 (can not erase)

I will make data on daughterboard ECU(real time tune) then burn data onto H8 chip.

If I install daughterboard to ECU and tune , road tune would cost $1050.

If I install H8 chip, First and second remap is same price.

If you install daughterboard $80 discount for the second remap.

Thank you

how much for a second remap? eg get a first remap, then bigger turbo/injectors/afm upgrade, and need a second remap but already have the daughterboard installed?
Hi PWND

I sent PM.

bahanthich

I have not installed daughterboard to ECU.

Daughterboard cost is $700.

So I use H8 plcc.

This only costs $80 (can not erase)

I will make data on daughterboard ECU(real time tune) then burn data onto H8 chip.

If I install daughterboard to ECU and tune , road tune would cost $1000.

If I install H8 chip, First and second remap is same price.

If you install daughterboard $80 discount for the second remap.

Thank you

hi toshi

can you do R34 GTT ecu remapping? I currently have only a turbo back exhaust .. but I want to get a boost controller and put the boost up to 11 and then have the ecu remapped so as to get a good/safe afr etc

What's the cost? Would a SAFC2 be a better option than a remap?

Hi Delta Force

Are you Sydney?

hi toshi

can you do R34 GTT ecu remapping? I currently have only a turbo back exhaust .. but I want to get a boost controller and put the boost up to 11 and then have the ecu remapped so as to get a good/safe afr etc

What's the cost? Would a SAFC2 be a better option than a remap?

Yeah I'm in sydney mate.. By the way, can you up the boost with a remap too and then tune the AFR? I'd prefer not to have to buy a SAFC2/Boost controller if I don't have to.

Edited by Delta Force

I sent PM.

Thank you

Yeah I'm in sydney mate.. By the way, can you up the boost with a remap too and then tune the AFR? I'd prefer not to have to buy a SAFC2/Boost controller if I don't have to.
  • 2 weeks later...
I wish you would come up to Brisbane.

Seems well worth it for the money.

Toshi, I live on the Gold Coast but would travel to Brisbane if you are heading this way :ermm:

hey toshi,

im interested in a tune on a r32 gtr, only has cat back, air pods, and a bleed valve, seems to run 8psi as stanadard, guess will raise to 12-14psi, what sort of torque and power levels would that give. if battery is removed from car is tune erased or damaged, where in sydney are u?

thanks mate

had my RB20 cefiro remapped by toshi, very happy with how much better the car drives. comes on boost much faster, was tuned with a safe tune because the car is primarily a track car.

for the price its defnitely worth it!!

see you soon toshi, with Z32 and Injectors!!

Hi benr32gtr

I sent PM.

Hi esky mad

I think also you need change air valve.

see you soon.

had my RB20 cefiro remapped by toshi, very happy with how much better the car drives. comes on boost much faster, was tuned with a safe tune because the car is primarily a track car.

for the price its defnitely worth it!!

see you soon toshi, with Z32 and Injectors!!




  • Latest Posts

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    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
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