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Hi Toshi,

Since the Brisbane trip is a bit complicated with needing to do cars during the work week and you needing to fly up here. What other options do we have? ie. retune by mail?

I need some sort of retune as my car pings if I apply throttle hard between 3500 and 4500 rpm.

Running 10 psi, full exhaust, R34 intercooler, filter and walbro pump.

I will send remap ECU to you.

You go to dyno and check AFR and ping.

Please send dyno sheet (I need AFR and rpm sheet)over the e-mail.

If not good I will send you another chip.

How many people did you fined?

Toshi

hi Toshi,

I have a 1997 series 2 r33 auto GTS-T with

FMIC,

split dump /front pipe,

full 3 " exhaust,

pod filter in CAI box,

turbo tech boost controller (10PSI),

wasnt going to do much more with the car as far as mods go..

I live in Perth was looking at a safc2 ....

was wondering if you can remap for my set up and how do we go about it...oh and how much :-)

regards Rob

Hey Toshi,

I have a Stagea 260RS, which I am led to believe has a R33 GTR ECU with R34 wiring loom. I cracked open the ECU the other day and discovered that it has no daughterboard connector :/

I am in Brissy, is there way you could do your mod and then I could take the car to someone in Brissy to get it tuned? Do you know of any workshops who have the necessary emulators? I already have Nistune on my laptop (I had a Nistune daughterboard in my last car...man I wish I could have one in this car).

Cheers,

Simon

Hi BoostedBarge

Did you check conector?

I think 260RS same all GTR conector.

So you are able to use R32 ECU.

Toshi

Hey Toshi,

I have a Stagea 260RS, which I am led to believe has a R33 GTR ECU with R34 wiring loom. I cracked open the ECU the other day and discovered that it has no daughterboard connector :rofl:

I am in Brissy, is there way you could do your mod and then I could take the car to someone in Brissy to get it tuned? Do you know of any workshops who have the necessary emulators? I already have Nistune on my laptop (I had a Nistune daughterboard in my last car...man I wish I could have one in this car).

Cheers,

Simon

Hi BoostedBarge

Did you check conector?

I think 260RS same all GTR conector.

So you are able to use R32 ECU.

Toshi

Yeah that's another option. I need to double-check on the wiring loom. I may be getting confused with the standard Stageas. It seems kind of crazy using a ECU that's nearly 10 years older than my car, but then I guess they use the same algorithms and have 16x16 maps, so what's there to gain?

Does the R34 GT-R ECU has a daughterboard connector like the R34 GT-T?

Edit: I'm sure there are quite a few differences between R33 and R32 ECUs. For a start, I just remembered that the R32 uses Titania O2 sensors, where as the R33 uses Zirconia (I just replaced them), so that would cause problems. Would probably have to replace the sensors.

Edited by BoostedBarge

260RS is same R33 GTR conector.

So you are able to use R32 ECU.(power FC is same R32 and R33. also some people use R32 ECU for R33 in Japan)

This is cheaper way.(R33 is 16 bit and R32 is 8bit)

daughterboard is expencive so I recommend power FC.

GTR power fc is not expencive.

If boosted up only(or little over 400hp), R32 ECU and power fc is same power.

If you will change big turbo I recommend power fc.

Toshi

Yeah that's another option. I need to double-check on the wiring loom. I may be getting confused with the standard Stageas. It seems kind of crazy using a ECU that's nearly 10 years older than my car, but then I guess they use the same algorithms and have 16x16 maps, so what's there to gain?

Does the R34 GT-R ECU has a daughterboard connector like the R34 GT-T?

Edit: I'm sure there are quite a few differences between R33 and R32 ECUs. For a start, I just remembered that the R32 uses Titania O2 sensors, where as the R33 uses Zirconia (I just replaced them), so that would cause problems. Would probably have to replace the sensors.

Cool. Thanks for your advice Toshi. I've played with Nissan ECUs a bit myself over the years, so I know how capable they are. :action-smiley-069: Ideally, I'd like to keep it, but it looks like it will not be economical to do so. Oh well..

I heard somewhere that you socketed daughterboard for the R33 can be connected to EPROM emulators and is supported by Nistune. Is this true? If this also works with the GTR ECU and I can find someone in Brisbane with EPROM emulators, then it may be an option. Otherwise...aftermarket it is

Yes,I am remaping R33 ECU by NISTUNE softwear.

But its only RB25DET.(R33 GTR custermmer is not many.So I do not have GTR spare ECU and daughterboard)

If you want to remap yourself , you need daughterboard.

Cost$ 650-750 include data for daughterboard.

So power FC is better.(second hand power FC is same price)

Cool. Thanks for your advice Toshi. I've played with Nissan ECUs a bit myself over the years, so I know how capable they are. :action-smiley-069: Ideally, I'd like to keep it, but it looks like it will not be economical to do so. Oh well..

I heard somewhere that you socketed daughterboard for the R33 can be connected to EPROM emulators and is supported by Nistune. Is this true? If this also works with the GTR ECU and I can find someone in Brisbane with EPROM emulators, then it may be an option. Otherwise...aftermarket it is

Thanks Toshi. I'm guessing the daughterboard is not a real-time programmable one like Nistune's, so once you add the cost of emulators (or finding someone with emulators), you're right, it's not a very economic option. It's a shame, I'd like to keep the factory ECU for the nice idle, cold start, knock control features and stealth factor :O. I believe the factory ECU is capable of supporting the sort of power I require. Oh well...

  • 3 weeks later...

just completed my remap with toshi.

r33 gtst w/ turbo, injectors, plenum, exhaust, afm, pod, fmic etc

results are unreal, i am absolutely stoked. well worth the money.

will post up dyno graph when i get a run soon.

thanks toshi!

Hey Simon

Yeah the problem with those ECUs is the MCU has to be replaced with a daughterboard which solders into where the MCU lives and then they intercept the logic with Programmable Logic Chips (MCU gets plugged in these boards). Currently those boards are fairly expensive. The boards seem to go for about $500-$700AUD but I dont know if that includes fitting.

I've got on my list to get those ones done and that will surely drive the price down... but thats a couple of projects down on my list at the moment due to the complexity and time involved

Fitted a few myself... you can then plug a Moates emulator into it and then tune using your exisitng license through that. Which is what Toshi is doing with Nistune (and then burning to blank H8 MCUs afterwards). Sam (dr_drift) knows where to get them if you are interested in getting one fitted (and confirm it is compatible with your ECU)

Burning H8s is definately the economical solution for most people compared to daughterboard but depends if you like tweaking the tune...

Thank you gt-ahhh!

His turbo is KKR430.

This is laggy turbo.

Now almost same response as std R33 turbo.

RB engines very important ignition timing for response and power.

I adjust AFR 11.5 his car for safe.(his car is street car)

Because AFR come up winter night.

If his car fitted bigger turbo I will adjust AFR 11(or under 11) for safe.

HKS 0-400M (quater mile) racer adjust AFR 10.8.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Simon

Yeah the problem with those ECUs is the MCU has to be replaced with a daughterboard which solders into where the MCU lives and then they intercept the logic with Programmable Logic Chips (MCU gets plugged in these boards). Currently those boards are fairly expensive. The boards seem to go for about $500-$700AUD but I dont know if that includes fitting.

I've got on my list to get those ones done and that will surely drive the price down... but thats a couple of projects down on my list at the moment due to the complexity and time involved

Fitted a few myself... you can then plug a Moates emulator into it and then tune using your exisitng license through that. Which is what Toshi is doing with Nistune (and then burning to blank H8 MCUs afterwards). Sam (dr_drift) knows where to get them if you are interested in getting one fitted (and confirm it is compatible with your ECU)

Burning H8s is definately the economical solution for most people compared to daughterboard but depends if you like tweaking the tune...

Cool, thanks for your reply Matt (sorry for the delay, I've been away with work). I'm now treading the line between plug-in aftermarket vs modded standard ECU. I guess it will be some time before I decide anyway (gotta convince the missus). I have some pics of this ECU. I will post them on Nistune for you.

Hey guys what a great service just wondering if you know anyone in Melbourne that does this sort of thing?

Cheers

Please PM if you know of any

Chris

Ah im happy to see there are a lot more happy customers with toshi!!

Toshi - i sold my car btw :)

perhaps if i buy another import, i will be coming to you again!! :D

Many people see your thread and they ask me about remap.

I very much appreciate it.

Thank you siddr20.

I hope you have a safe trip.

Toshi

Ah im happy to see there are a lot more happy customers with toshi!!

Toshi - i sold my car btw :P

perhaps if i buy another import, i will be coming to you again!! :D

Thanks toshi

I have asked the mods to move my thread to force induction section..

Anyways heres the link for those who are still interesting this remap: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...st-t211348.html

can you do 300zx as well?

I am able to remap.

If its later model I have to get daughter board.

  • 4 weeks later...
Thank you gt-ahhh!

His turbo is KKR430.

This is laggy turbo.

Now almost same response as std R33 turbo.

RB engines very important ignition timing for response and power.

I adjust AFR 11.5 his car for safe.(his car is street car)

Because AFR come up winter night.

If his car fitted bigger turbo I will adjust AFR 11(or under 11) for safe.

HKS 0-400M (quater mile) racer adjust AFR 10.8.

Hey Toshi,

Do you remember what power you made with the KKR430, I was thinkin bout puttin a KKR480, what do you reccommend for me to do to increase the response?

Cheers




  • Latest Posts

    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
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