Jump to content
SAU Community

Nistune Powerfc Hks Fcon Haltech Ems Link Ecu Etc Real Time Road Tune And Dyno Tune Available In Sydney And Other State


Recommended Posts

Can you PM me price for full remap on r33 series 2.

R34 gtr front mount, turbo back exhaust, splitfires

in south Australia

Can you PM me price for full remap on r33 series 2.

R34 gtr front mount, turbo back exhaust, splitfires

in south Australia

If its std turbo,std injector ,std AFM, cost $450 exchange.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

I started group buy!

If you book for more than two people for tune, there will be a discount of $100!

  • 1 month later...

I am planning to visit Melbourne around end of this month or next month(Jun or July)

Anyone interested in tuning?

R33 Cost $550 road tune

Please call 0410490049

Or [email protected]

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I did real time ecu tune (R33 ecu ) Mr David Stankowski drift car in gold cost at 23 July 2011 and he got second place after my tune! PRO TOUR 2011-----Round 4----QLD RACEWAY----Sun july 31

His cars engine is RB25DET std turbo,std AFM,std injector, and my remapped R33 ecu.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=480831&st=0&p=6346004&hl=David%20Stankowski%20&fromsearch=1entry6346004

  • 4 months later...

I will go to QLD January or Feb.

Im able to tune all nissan ecu.

R33 ecu tune price from $550 ecu exchange road tune.

Also R32 ecu , Z32 ecu.

If someone interesting for tune please call PM or email.

My ph 0410490049

or

email [email protected]

  • 2 weeks later...

is it still $550 for road tune on 33 GTR with power fc?

If your car is stock turbo price $450 road tune.

If you are coming to Brisbane how much would it be to look over my current tune on my power FC ( I have bosch 044, 600cc inj, hypergear SS1PU Turbo, Z32 AFM.) It may need some touch up.

and is a nistune possible with my current level of mods? would be interesting to see the comparison between the 2.

If you are coming to Brisbane how much would it be to look over my current tune on my power FC ( I have bosch 044, 600cc inj, hypergear SS1PU Turbo, Z32 AFM.) It may need some touch up.

and is a nistune possible with my current level of mods? would be interesting to see the comparison between the 2.

Your mods $550 full road tune.

Omly touch up tune is $90/hour.

ECU is all same about your mods.

If you want to boost over 19psi and its race car I think haltech or motech is better than R33 nissan ecu.

Because haltech or motec map is 32x32 .(But some shop is tuning only 16x16 so you have to find good tuner)

  • 2 weeks later...



  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...