Braided Lines On Turbo

[R34NRG]

was wondering exactly how many lines there are off a gt3540 turbo? and how much would it cost to get braided lines?

was quoted around 500 which seems a lil high to me but then again its not my area.

apart fromt he turbo wat are other typical spots to get braided lines aswell.

any pics would be great!

cheers

[Mr Illuminator]

look on ebay. bought mine for $250 for speedflow fittings and lines.

[R34NRG]

look on ebay. bought mine for $250 for speedflow fittings and lines.

good quality though?

i dont want things blowing up at 7000rpm lol

[r33cruiser]

i just got my gt3540 done man. i used 3 braided lines with some 'special' snap on-off fittings....apparently.. and am still using a basic hose for the big oil drain on the bottom, although it is covered with a fireproof sleeve.

for 3 fittings it cost me $425 from ENZED. they are a fair length...and that price included ALL fittings

500 sounds fair

Edited March 12, 2008 by r33cruiser

[RB120WHY]

Mine cost $500 for a mobile guy to come to my garage and do it on my old RB20. Saved me stuffing around with it. oil feed and the 2 water lines to the block were done.

[NYTSKY]

I went to Pirtek.Oil and water lines plus fitting of the banjos was only $180.Try there.

[R31Nismoid]

Totally depends on the length you require.

I paid about $150 for mine, but then i knew the guy

I wouldnt bother with something from ebay - get them made to suit the application otherwise your likely to waste your money

[GeeTR]

Pertek guy will prolly use crimp hose ends (like on high pressure brake and power steering) which will bump the cost up.

You can ask him to use ordinary AN compression fittings (Earls, Speedflow, Aeroquip) as people do with the -10 oil cooler setups.

Or you can orders some fittings and line and make em yourself.

[abu]

I got an oil feed line made up at PIRTEK - was with the clamped ends, takes up to 280deg heat

Cost me about $90 with a banjo style fitting on one side and a shit load of other fittings on the turbo side

Pretty good quality, no issues with it at all - just talking about the oil feed here

[GeeTR]

Pretty good quality, no issues with it at all - just walking oil feed here

talking u mean?

[abu]

talking u mean?

hmm.. you could say talking

EDITED!!

[SirRacer]

I made mine up myself from parts from www.staparts.co.nz and another local shop who i wont reccomend as Apex Brake and CLutch are expensive bollockswits!:-)

The ones that i couldnt get some STA are pretty fiddly and not a major and most shops will sell them. STA parts braided lines etc are so cheap and id highly reccomend them.

Total cost would have been around 320NZD if i hadnt ordered way too much length for everything. Getting the braid into the fittings takes patience but mine are mint

The pic just shows my pushloc lines as i hadnt put the braid on at the time. Pushloc is great as it doesnt rub through things like braid and is so easy to work with. For water stuff its brilliant

This is the list of parts i required

Oil Return

2 Bolt Oil Drain -10 fitting (thanks salival from the forum for this)

-10 Stainless Hose 21.90 (2 feet)

XRP 981613 ¾ NPT -10 Adaptor 34

2x - 10 Staight hose ends 23.76 (2)

Oil Feed

M12x1.25 -4 Adaptor Don’t remember price

2 x -4 90 Hose Ends 43.92 (2)

2 Feet -4 Stainless Braid 10.16 (2 feet)

-4 Male to 7/12 -24 Adaptor 7.96

(into -4 90 to suit Gt3540r)

Water (Feed and return)

Water feeds are the same into the turbo as from the block

M14x1.5 -8 Male x3 Block & Turbo 25.29 (3)

M14x1.5 -5 90 (to mount into intake) 7.62

-8 Pushloc Hose 4.55 per foot (18.20 as I needed 4)

-8 90 Hose ends x2 43.92 (2) From block and into turbo

-8 45 Hose Ends (turbo side rocker cover) 24.44

-8 Straight (into 90) 7.40

Edited March 13, 2008 by SirRacer

[GeeTR]

Not wanting to steps on ne1's paws... but thought bout asking Kyle for some better prices? Maybe get him to include lines in your group buy?

[GeeTR]

SirRacer, like your manifold, turbo and Style (no rubNtug)

[SirRacer]

Oh yeah, ive done lots of research into the way water flows through the rb blocks and this is the correct way to run the piping. Running the water return through the back of the engine results in putting more hot water back into the engine.

What ive done is relocated a sensor, moved another across and tapped the thread to suit. Looks good and i dont anticipate any problems with it.

[GeeTR]

Well come on, which sensor have you moved? W.temp ? to where?

Cough up - Interested!

Edited March 13, 2008 by GeeTR

[SirRacer]

Thanks mate. I havent gone flashy in any places (as you would have noticed), rather went for a reliable setup that would produce the goods.

The turbo manifold was a necessity as the stock ones are so crap and mounting a big gate on them is heaps of effort. Its custom and made of 2 inch pipe for the runners.

Here is another pic of the way the pipe is run. We have since cut it down quite a lot and mounted a bracket on the side of it to keep it in place.

[SirRacer]

They are 2 temp sensors from memory (obviously due to the location). One has been moved across to make way for the bigger fitting and the other has been put in the water jacket on the intake manifold, along with an aftermarket temp sensor (you can see it there if you look closely).

Ill get some better pics soon.