Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

Need some advice on buying a car from sydney and bring it back to Perth. Basically, what i wanted to know is where the stamp duty,transfer fee etc is payable? The car is registered un NSW until Dec 08. How much would it roughly cost to have the car transported from SYD to PER?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210139-buying-a-car-from-over-east/
Share on other sites

i did this last year in april

so about a year ago

cost me $900 to get it hear using toll

even if its registered over there the car has to go over the pits here and be re-registered

my stamp duty was about $300 but that all depends on how much you pay for the car

i did this last year in april

so about a year ago

cost me $900 to get it hear using toll

even if its registered over there the car has to go over the pits here and be re-registered

my stamp duty was about $300 but that all depends on how much you pay for the car

Cheers for that mate! :( So all i gotta do is pay for the car and have it shipped to Perth and dont have to worry abt having to inform the Licensing guys in NSW? Im actually buying the car from a Private seller..guess im going to fill out the transfer papers and provide my perth address in it. Sorry for sounding so dumb...dont know a thing abt car licensing and how it works!! :P

All the help is appreciated. :D

Ok, there are two ways to go about it.

The way you probably can't do it is by being a resident of the state you're buying from, then you can bring the car over drive it for 3 months before you get it re-registered. You'll need to take it over the pits, pay stamp duty and registration costs.

The other way (if your not a resident of the source state) is to bring it over (toll cost me ~$900-100 for my R33 -- took about 1.5 weeks) then you'll have to get a temporary moving permit ($14 from the licensing center) this will let you drive it on WA roads for 48 hours to take it to the pits and get it passed. You'll then need to pay pits inspection fee (I think it was about $50), stamp duty (based off the cost of the car -- use this link) and normal registration and number plate costs. You'll then get to bolt your plates on and drive it home.

A few things to note:

- The remaining registration period from NSW will be lost, however I believe the owner can un-register it in NSW when he drops it off at toll (or whoever) and get a refund on the remaining registration time.

- When you go the the pits, make sure all lights, horns, wipers etc. are working and all 'questionable' equipment is removed.

- Bring some basic tools to the pits that way you can do any minor changes/mods/fixes to your car and have it re-inspected quickly -- also good for removing the old plates and putting the new ones on.

- Unless you're the owner of the car and a resident of it's source state you cannot drive it on WA roads without a moving permit - i didn't know this and drove mine around for 2 whole months! :|

- Get somebody to at least look at the car before you go ahead and buy it, surely somebody over there will be willing to help and just report on any minor issues before it arrives.

Oh and when you do the transfer of ownership -- you should be fine with filing out your perth address etc. you just aren't allowed to drive it until it's reregistered. And make sure you take all receipts and proof of ownership papers to the pits!

Pretty well what levinet said but I think you will find if the car is from a dealer you can get away with 3 months on the eastern states plates before the transfer is required. Stamp duty to be paid in WA.

Also be very careful buying privately (or even from dealers) check REVS and the written off register in the state of interest, make sure all the VIN/engine/chassis and import numbers all add up and do a FAST check on this forum to make sure it is as it should be from the factory.

Unfortunately there are a lot of dodgy cars and characters out there.

Good luck

Pretty well what levinet said but I think you will find if the car is from a dealer you can get away with 3 months on the eastern states plates before the transfer is required. Stamp duty to be paid in WA.

My car was from a dealer and I was under the same impression. However when I eventually took the car over the pits I was told I wasn't meant to be driving it without a temporary moving permit, fortunately the guy was nice and let me buy a moving permit on the spot, once I had this he could proceed with re-registering my car.

I did however manage to drive around for 2+ months on NSW rego without getting in trouble.

Hey mate

I just import my car from NSW about 3 months ago i work for a impor / export company if you need help let me know

AUSTrans company i used VIA rails paid 1200 with insurance on it Once here need to get a perimt from the Lincsing Depo drive it to the pits once the ok you can transfer plates and drive it :thumbsup:

When the car arrives, on the truck you have to get a permit to move it. Book in a the pits or take it to pits that don't take bookings (careful that you don't show up to late in the day or they'll turn you away i.e. before 3.00pm!)

http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/yourvehicle/1440.asp Here is a link to get details on securing your permit.

I still ahvent gone over the pits lol im driving on the NSW plates been 3 months :blink: hahaha just cbf going over the pits
I drove around for about 2 months but then when I took it over they said I was meant to have a moving permit, but the guy was nice and gave me one on the spot so I could continue the registration proccess.

I did get pulled over by the cops in those 2 months, they didn't say anything regarding the plates etc.

If you fly over there to look at it, and buy it while there, you can go to the license centre over there and transfer it into your name. That way you could bring it over and drive it until the rego runs out. I think stamp duty may be cheaper over there too.

If you fly over there to look at it, and buy it while there, you can go to the license centre over there and transfer it into your name. That way you could bring it over and drive it until the rego runs out. I think stamp duty may be cheaper over there too.

You'll need to be a resident of the origin state to do that.

When I bought my car from over east I did it. No problem. As long as you're there in person it's fine. Well it was then...

Ahh ok, you're probably right then. :D I was just going off what I was told when I asked the licensing centre (who are usually wrong anyway).

best chance is doing it that way!

so saves you going over the pits.

i Still havent gone after and CBF really havent had any worries,

But am think of doing it to be safe + you will Get more for ur car$$ if it Lisnced in WA

best chance is doing it that way!

so saves you going over the pits.

i Still havent gone after and CBF really havent had any worries,

But am think of doing it to be safe + you will Get more for ur car$ if it Lisnced in WA

You'll still need to go over the pits. Any car coming over from another state for whatever reason (yours or not) will need to pass an inspection.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...