Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You'll get more out of a R33 GTR for the same cash outlay. It will most likely cost you more to run and maintain though.

Depends on how much you like the look/shape/interior/extra features of the R34 GTT :D

I went for the R34 GTT because I am willing to hold out for an R34 or R35 GTR.

Cheers.

The GTR is a faster car and more fun out of the box :D

R34 GTT's are nice but they're the tame version of a GTR, nothing more (they're still an awesome car though).

I've driven both extensively and as long as you're prepared to put a bit more into the maintenance of a GTR, the GTR is 100% the best option.

I dont understand why the GTR takes more maintenance?

IMO both probably need the same oil changes, coolant changes. The only difference is your diff oil changes might be abit dearer in the GTR because your doing front and rear. Apart from that, I dont understand why maintenance varies

I dont understand why the GTR takes more maintenance?

IMO both probably need the same oil changes, coolant changes. The only difference is your diff oil changes might be abit dearer in the GTR because your doing front and rear. Apart from that, I dont understand why maintenance varies

when stuff goes wrong it will cost more. And parts can be harder to find.

Go the GTR you will love it. Have you even driven the both of them yet? Surely you would have feel the huge difference, but i guess it depends what you want out of it.

Daegu, i've investigated that option and it's not as cheap or as easy as it sounds. You'd almost be better off saving the dough and getting a 34 GTR .. and judging by how much these things have dropped in price, it wouldn't be such a stretch.

Thanks guys for the suggestion

I think may go for the GTR..

Coz i may want the power more than the look. .. or RX7 s8.. it got power and look good as well

need start to seach for the good condition and cheap 33R now.

you can get decent r34 gtrs from japan for between 40 and 50 k now complied and landed

Interesting that you say that. My GTT would owe me about $50K including purchase price and many many mods. I wonder if I would have been better off waiting a little while and buying an R. Is a stock GTR better than a fairly heavily worked GTT? That is the question. AWD vs 2WD. GTR has the funky computer display, GTR looks meaner, but the GTT would now be running quite a few more horses at the wheels.

you can get decent r34 gtrs from japan for between 40 and 50 k now complied and landed

R34 GTR only cost that much to au? I saw in carsales peoples still selling over $70 - 90k so expensive

Thanks for telling me that....... I think i need to do more research how to get a 34R for between 40 and 50k as well

Interesting that you say that. My GTT would owe me about $50K including purchase price and many many mods. I wonder if I would have been better off waiting a little while and buying an R. Is a stock GTR better than a fairly heavily worked GTT? That is the question. AWD vs 2WD. GTR has the funky computer display, GTR looks meaner, but the GTT would now be running quite a few more horses at the wheels.

As much as I like the R33 GTR, they are hard to find one's in good nick these days.. their almost becoming like the R32. I was going to purchase one, but the R34 just had me for some reason.. sleeker design, More rigid and sturdy chassis than the previous models. great weight distribution. and handling. etc etc. and the Neo RB25 is a great engine to mod. puts out the same power than a stock R34GTR but its just RWD. which is more fun. :thumbsup:

I've had both cars before too. As Tommo said a gtr is always a GTR. GTT is the slightly tamer version indeed.

Although we have to say it is newer, but hey, i did come across problems with my GTT that needs to be fixed as well and GTT parts ain't that cheap too. Went to the 33 GTR and never looked back. Handling and performance wise the GTR craps all over the GTT.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
    • 40 grit sounds about right, to start. You make some decent cuts/damage in the coating with that, then rapdily scale up to maybe 80 and 120 for the bulk of the actual removal, then fine it off to 180 or 240 perhaps. No need to go any finer than that, and maybe no need to go even as fine as that. Wrap it on a big block and have at it. At least on the hub face.
    • Do the GKTech rear lower control arm mount relocation, and either alloy subframe inserts or very stiff subframe bushes. Traction is going to be at a premium!
    • Hello,   My name if Frederick, i'm 30 years old and I live in Belgium, Europe! I used to have a Nissan 370z daily but since I got a company car I turned that into my seattime driftcar. About 3 years ago I also wanted something older with more feel, so I got an R32 GTST with an rb26 engine. I am now getting the rb built to have around 800hp and it's close to being finished. I'm very excited for how it will drive and how driveable it will be! Regards, Fred!
×
×
  • Create New...