Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

i purchased a new airbox for my rb25det http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...sid=p2759.l1259 i have installed it three times and every time its on the car the turbo dosnt want to come onto boost it trys but nothing happens the bov makes a muffled sound and the car just accelrates slowly but unwillinglly

very frustrated been working on it four 6 hours now i had to disconnect the black cannister near the air con condensor and remove the intercooler piping other than that everything is untouched.

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210184-airbox/
Share on other sites

Hehehe :teehee:

Is there any holes so the air filter can get air ? maybe you sealed it up so tight there is no air for it to suck ?

air filter pipe kinked at all ?

take some pics of it installed and post em up ?

cheers for takin the neon comment like that, made my day :P

lol i didnt put the neon in maybe thats my problem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210184-airbox/#findComment-3716258
Share on other sites

ok guys the rubber adapter was split problem at bottom replaced it, f it runs to boost ok now but is missing at top of rpm you rekon sumthing simple is going on or have a broken something? lis is still off

Edited by stavros01
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210184-airbox/#findComment-3716452
Share on other sites

you see... this is why I carry on about using the stock air box.

look how much time/money you have spent.

How much it's giving you the shits.

and you've gone Backwards in performance in comparison to an exposed pod filter, and even further backwards compared to a stock air box.

there are at least 3 stock airbox with snorkle and panel filter for sale on these forums for an R33 GTST for $50.

If you must keep it, then I'd suggest removing the partition and going for another drive (how many hours to do that?).

if there are no problems high in the rev range, then you know that the partition is causing some sort of problem.

be it not enough air due to no cai (Cold Air Induction) or perhaps it is too tight around the rubber intake pipe that goes from pod to turbo and is actually crimping it a little causing a restriction in air.

perhaps due to no air feed (cai), the rubber pipe between turbo and pod is being sucked closed..

who knows..

so what are you going to do?

spend another x hours to diagnose and possibly fix it but still be left with a system that has no air feed?

or spend less time and $50 to get the stock air box and sort it out properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210184-airbox/#findComment-3716538
Share on other sites

thanks guys im going to go to stock air box and see what happens it came with the pod when i bought it all i was trying to do is keep the hot air from the motor, away from the intake seemed simple enough (sigh) hopefully nothings been changed in there to stop it fitting

fast responses support is fantastic here

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210184-airbox/#findComment-3716973
Share on other sites

wen i get my car back ill show u out it should be set up properly, you should always stick to the OEM airbox unless you can supply a proper CAI(cold air intake) for your enclosed POD, otherwise its either A) sucking hot air which is useless or B) sucking no air cuz theres no air feed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210184-airbox/#findComment-3717113
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 馃槕. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
  • Create New...