Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hmmm i found these KKR turbo's that dont look too bad good price for a brand new turbo.. anyone have one and can comment on response?

http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkr/KKR430.html or http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkr/KKR480.html

thats definately what i was looking at spending plus their already in australia and everything so yeah.. comments would be good =]

ah k yehh that was my friends idea lol i'd prefer just getting a proper high flow.. those KKR turbo's dont look too bad its just that ive been reading and apparently theres alot of modifications u have to make like getting the wastegate machined and things like that to get it to fit plus some people are saying it has overboosting issues and it has alot of lag... wander if the JJ version is the same or without those problems

ah k yehh that was my friends idea lol i'd prefer just getting a proper high flow.. those KKR turbo's dont look too bad its just that ive been reading and apparently theres alot of modifications u have to make like getting the wastegate machined and things like that to get it to fit plus some people are saying it has overboosting issues and it has alot of lag... wander if the JJ version is the same or without those problems

Spend the extra time looking for a good r34 turbo, it's worth it with an rb20. If you go a hi-flow or even worse a kkr lag and response will be a big issue. You probably already know the stock r34 turbo has ceramic and nylon wheels to help it spool up quick so it's an excellent option; other advantages ball bearing cartridge, big exhaust housing, no fitting issues or dump pipe modification required, dirt cheap in comparison with an equivalent turbo.

Aim for average power rather than marginally more top end power as it pays off down the 1/4 and general driving around the street. As long as you don't go to far over 15psi the stock r34 turbos hold up well.

Id be going along these lines.

Spool cam gears in and ex ~ $200

R34 turbo ~ $400 (r32 11psi actuator, free off your stocker)

Full exhaust system 3" ~ $900 exhaust shop

Bosch 040 pump ~ $200

PFC ~ $1100 (really is worth the effort in finding one)

Tune ~ $250-$600 prices vary heaps with tuning

Intercooler Kit ~ $450 (Any Chinese kit will do)

hmmm i found these KKR turbo's that dont look too bad good price for a brand new turbo.. anyone have one and can comment on response?

KKR430

thats definately what i was looking at spending plus their already in australia and everything so yeah.. comments would be good =]

i have one and theyre very laggy for the power they make IMO , if i were you id just buy a rb25 turbo and get a remap. think of it this way: its not about the number on the dyno, its about the driveability of the car :) . by the time your used to the powre you will have a lil more knowledge of where to go next :laugh:

Edited by toffy

BAMR33 : Where would i be able to find an R34 turbo? I did a search but couldnt find any for sale.. could u find any R34 turbo's up for sale? and do u have turbo name coz im pretty much just searching for "R34 Turbo" in the parts for sale area and getting nothing... i was thinking of putting a RB25 turbo in since its cheap but if i can get a R34 Turbo for around the same price i might as we'll go for that. Also with the setup u listed, how much KW would i be looking at with that setup?

Thanks

Edited by cosmokram3r

yeah no op6's for sale at the moment.. so im thinking that GT28RS would be the highest price im willing to go and its pretty much equivalent to the HKS GT2530 so cant go wrong read some good reviews that its very responsive and is good for about 230kw with support mods... only thing is if i cant find a T3 flange and have to get a T25/28 flange then i wander how much exactly i'll need to convert it to T3

Edited by cosmokram3r

2510/30 is small... u will regret it later on when your after more power, if you plan on keeping the car for a fair while just keep your current turbo and go for sumthing like a 3037s. dont b a cheapskate when it comes to upgrading your turbo... if you reallllly want more power just buy a cheap rb25 turbo and save up for a better snail later on just my 2cents...

nahhh i dont want too much power (still on my P's).. i just want that power that pushes u back in your seat u know.. ive been thinking alot about http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm Nissan Special Garrett GT28RS 350hp ball bearing turbo which is straight bolt on T3 flange and 6 bolt dump pipe for RB20/25 which is $1800.. its just all the supporting mods im gonna need to back it up the list just goes on and on.. PFC is gonna set me back alot so im thinking maybe wait till i buy every mod i want to do and get a re-map because after that i wont mod my car for a while and i know u need to re-tune every time u add more mods so if i just throw everything in and get it tuned i should be fine and then down the track look at getting a PFC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Gabriel, and thanks for saving one of the less famous cousins!
    • Wanting to avoid this if possible but kinda looking like I may not have a choice 😭
    • Ok awesome thank you. Just wanted to have them in case I can find some and need to compare part numbers!
    • All I can say Duncan is good luck and I hope that Neil did not run any E85 in Cheryl. I have recently experienced the full spectrum of fuel tank issues in my R33's that had been caused by E85 and contaminated fuel. When you take the cover off the top of the tank and have a look inside you will get an understanding of how easy it will be. Best case situation is clean fuel with minimal contamination. My GTR was like this and it was a very simple operation to just grab the fuel pump carrier bracket and slide it up and out of the tank. My three GTS_T's had different levels of fuel contamination that was probably caused by E85 in the fuel.  In the worst case all of the metal components in the tank had rusted to the point where there were pieces of rusted metal swirling around in the tank. This required the removal of the exhaust, the tailshaft, the complete rear cradle and the fuel tank. The components in the tank were that rusted that it took days to get the fuel pump carrier and the mounting brackets out of the tank. When the tank was finally cleaned, everything inside the tank had to be replaced. With the tank all back together I could then reinstall it in the car along with everything else that had to come out. Good luck and I hope that you find a clean tank.    
    • It is a two door. It is black and also still has the OEM wheels and stereo. Exact model would be KR_R32RGFEL_SS According to GTR-Registry.com is a 2 Door Coupe; RB20DE; 2WD no HICAS; MT.F5; (11L) Projector Headlamps and Fog Lights; (12_) Electronic Active Full Auto Air Con (Climate Control); (13-14SS) V Selection -- Which seems to be accurate description of my variant. Will try to upload a few pictures soon. The OEM wheels look like the below image. Image is taken from the goo-net-exchange website.  
×
×
  • Create New...