Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hmmm i found these KKR turbo's that dont look too bad good price for a brand new turbo.. anyone have one and can comment on response?

http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkr/KKR430.html or http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkr/KKR480.html

thats definately what i was looking at spending plus their already in australia and everything so yeah.. comments would be good =]

ah k yehh that was my friends idea lol i'd prefer just getting a proper high flow.. those KKR turbo's dont look too bad its just that ive been reading and apparently theres alot of modifications u have to make like getting the wastegate machined and things like that to get it to fit plus some people are saying it has overboosting issues and it has alot of lag... wander if the JJ version is the same or without those problems

ah k yehh that was my friends idea lol i'd prefer just getting a proper high flow.. those KKR turbo's dont look too bad its just that ive been reading and apparently theres alot of modifications u have to make like getting the wastegate machined and things like that to get it to fit plus some people are saying it has overboosting issues and it has alot of lag... wander if the JJ version is the same or without those problems

Spend the extra time looking for a good r34 turbo, it's worth it with an rb20. If you go a hi-flow or even worse a kkr lag and response will be a big issue. You probably already know the stock r34 turbo has ceramic and nylon wheels to help it spool up quick so it's an excellent option; other advantages ball bearing cartridge, big exhaust housing, no fitting issues or dump pipe modification required, dirt cheap in comparison with an equivalent turbo.

Aim for average power rather than marginally more top end power as it pays off down the 1/4 and general driving around the street. As long as you don't go to far over 15psi the stock r34 turbos hold up well.

Id be going along these lines.

Spool cam gears in and ex ~ $200

R34 turbo ~ $400 (r32 11psi actuator, free off your stocker)

Full exhaust system 3" ~ $900 exhaust shop

Bosch 040 pump ~ $200

PFC ~ $1100 (really is worth the effort in finding one)

Tune ~ $250-$600 prices vary heaps with tuning

Intercooler Kit ~ $450 (Any Chinese kit will do)

hmmm i found these KKR turbo's that dont look too bad good price for a brand new turbo.. anyone have one and can comment on response?

KKR430

thats definately what i was looking at spending plus their already in australia and everything so yeah.. comments would be good =]

i have one and theyre very laggy for the power they make IMO , if i were you id just buy a rb25 turbo and get a remap. think of it this way: its not about the number on the dyno, its about the driveability of the car :) . by the time your used to the powre you will have a lil more knowledge of where to go next :laugh:

Edited by toffy

BAMR33 : Where would i be able to find an R34 turbo? I did a search but couldnt find any for sale.. could u find any R34 turbo's up for sale? and do u have turbo name coz im pretty much just searching for "R34 Turbo" in the parts for sale area and getting nothing... i was thinking of putting a RB25 turbo in since its cheap but if i can get a R34 Turbo for around the same price i might as we'll go for that. Also with the setup u listed, how much KW would i be looking at with that setup?

Thanks

Edited by cosmokram3r

yeah no op6's for sale at the moment.. so im thinking that GT28RS would be the highest price im willing to go and its pretty much equivalent to the HKS GT2530 so cant go wrong read some good reviews that its very responsive and is good for about 230kw with support mods... only thing is if i cant find a T3 flange and have to get a T25/28 flange then i wander how much exactly i'll need to convert it to T3

Edited by cosmokram3r

2510/30 is small... u will regret it later on when your after more power, if you plan on keeping the car for a fair while just keep your current turbo and go for sumthing like a 3037s. dont b a cheapskate when it comes to upgrading your turbo... if you reallllly want more power just buy a cheap rb25 turbo and save up for a better snail later on just my 2cents...

nahhh i dont want too much power (still on my P's).. i just want that power that pushes u back in your seat u know.. ive been thinking alot about http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm Nissan Special Garrett GT28RS 350hp ball bearing turbo which is straight bolt on T3 flange and 6 bolt dump pipe for RB20/25 which is $1800.. its just all the supporting mods im gonna need to back it up the list just goes on and on.. PFC is gonna set me back alot so im thinking maybe wait till i buy every mod i want to do and get a re-map because after that i wont mod my car for a while and i know u need to re-tune every time u add more mods so if i just throw everything in and get it tuned i should be fine and then down the track look at getting a PFC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...