Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hmmm i found these KKR turbo's that dont look too bad good price for a brand new turbo.. anyone have one and can comment on response?

http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkr/KKR430.html or http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkr/KKR480.html

thats definately what i was looking at spending plus their already in australia and everything so yeah.. comments would be good =]

ah k yehh that was my friends idea lol i'd prefer just getting a proper high flow.. those KKR turbo's dont look too bad its just that ive been reading and apparently theres alot of modifications u have to make like getting the wastegate machined and things like that to get it to fit plus some people are saying it has overboosting issues and it has alot of lag... wander if the JJ version is the same or without those problems

ah k yehh that was my friends idea lol i'd prefer just getting a proper high flow.. those KKR turbo's dont look too bad its just that ive been reading and apparently theres alot of modifications u have to make like getting the wastegate machined and things like that to get it to fit plus some people are saying it has overboosting issues and it has alot of lag... wander if the JJ version is the same or without those problems

Spend the extra time looking for a good r34 turbo, it's worth it with an rb20. If you go a hi-flow or even worse a kkr lag and response will be a big issue. You probably already know the stock r34 turbo has ceramic and nylon wheels to help it spool up quick so it's an excellent option; other advantages ball bearing cartridge, big exhaust housing, no fitting issues or dump pipe modification required, dirt cheap in comparison with an equivalent turbo.

Aim for average power rather than marginally more top end power as it pays off down the 1/4 and general driving around the street. As long as you don't go to far over 15psi the stock r34 turbos hold up well.

Id be going along these lines.

Spool cam gears in and ex ~ $200

R34 turbo ~ $400 (r32 11psi actuator, free off your stocker)

Full exhaust system 3" ~ $900 exhaust shop

Bosch 040 pump ~ $200

PFC ~ $1100 (really is worth the effort in finding one)

Tune ~ $250-$600 prices vary heaps with tuning

Intercooler Kit ~ $450 (Any Chinese kit will do)

hmmm i found these KKR turbo's that dont look too bad good price for a brand new turbo.. anyone have one and can comment on response?

KKR430

thats definately what i was looking at spending plus their already in australia and everything so yeah.. comments would be good =]

i have one and theyre very laggy for the power they make IMO , if i were you id just buy a rb25 turbo and get a remap. think of it this way: its not about the number on the dyno, its about the driveability of the car :) . by the time your used to the powre you will have a lil more knowledge of where to go next :laugh:

Edited by toffy

BAMR33 : Where would i be able to find an R34 turbo? I did a search but couldnt find any for sale.. could u find any R34 turbo's up for sale? and do u have turbo name coz im pretty much just searching for "R34 Turbo" in the parts for sale area and getting nothing... i was thinking of putting a RB25 turbo in since its cheap but if i can get a R34 Turbo for around the same price i might as we'll go for that. Also with the setup u listed, how much KW would i be looking at with that setup?

Thanks

Edited by cosmokram3r

yeah no op6's for sale at the moment.. so im thinking that GT28RS would be the highest price im willing to go and its pretty much equivalent to the HKS GT2530 so cant go wrong read some good reviews that its very responsive and is good for about 230kw with support mods... only thing is if i cant find a T3 flange and have to get a T25/28 flange then i wander how much exactly i'll need to convert it to T3

Edited by cosmokram3r

2510/30 is small... u will regret it later on when your after more power, if you plan on keeping the car for a fair while just keep your current turbo and go for sumthing like a 3037s. dont b a cheapskate when it comes to upgrading your turbo... if you reallllly want more power just buy a cheap rb25 turbo and save up for a better snail later on just my 2cents...

nahhh i dont want too much power (still on my P's).. i just want that power that pushes u back in your seat u know.. ive been thinking alot about http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm Nissan Special Garrett GT28RS 350hp ball bearing turbo which is straight bolt on T3 flange and 6 bolt dump pipe for RB20/25 which is $1800.. its just all the supporting mods im gonna need to back it up the list just goes on and on.. PFC is gonna set me back alot so im thinking maybe wait till i buy every mod i want to do and get a re-map because after that i wont mod my car for a while and i know u need to re-tune every time u add more mods so if i just throw everything in and get it tuned i should be fine and then down the track look at getting a PFC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...