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i tried searching and most of responses were for an external squeak in the actual gearbox. this isnt my problem

my actual clutch pedal is making a horrible continous squeaking noise (r33gtst)

i tried spraying some lube, it only fixed it for a day or two

i took it to a mechanic who used a stethoscope and some special spray lube, it fixed it for a week

the squeak goes (temporarily) if i apply a hunk of lube to the main piston that runs through the firewall, my mechanic diagnosed this.

does anyone have a remedy? i've been using wheel bearing grease.

i've found a few posts on other forums saying that they had to disassemble the entire pedal setup to pull out some wierd named components and replace, some bushes and pins and springs. is it common for skylines to require this?

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Mine squeaks inside and outside. It's common on R33's. For inside i remember reading that the clutch pedal assembly can crack, and basically wear and tear means you need to rip the whole thing out.

I'll have to get it fixed eventually too.

Mine squeaks..

Mine is the pin that secures the master cyl rod to the pedal.

My bushes were stuffed so I removed them; if i push the pin to the right the squeek stops; it then slowly works its way to the left again and starts squeeking.

Looking at the pin and pedal section the pin has placed a fair whack of a dent in the pedals metal due to almost 200,000km's (255,000km's total) of running heavy clutches. ;)

  • 1 month later...

Yeah seems squeaky clutches are common but annoying!! Mine seems to be my clutch fork according to the mechanic and a pain to get too.

If anyone has a remedy for lubricating a clutch fork without taking everything out and making a big job please let me know.

  • 2 weeks later...
Mine squeaks inside and outside. It's common on R33's. For inside i remember reading that the clutch pedal assembly can crack, and basically wear and tear means you need to rip the whole thing out.

I'll have to get it fixed eventually too.

Hi There , Most of these noises and funny pedal feel come from the clutch pedal bracket which is obviously under engineered in thickness of material or the welder on the assembly line had many off days and didn't weld them enough, some people never had this trouble with the bracket but many others do,Subarus are notorious for it, and it's the kind of fault that will end up stranding you out on the road somewhere where you can't select gears and in order not to leave your car on the road while you get help you will destroy your synchro's or worse trying to get home,you may also have to fix any elongation in the clutch pedal hole itself and get a new pin to connect pedal to rod as these can get grooved.

The solution is fix it before this happens to you, for this reason I am buying a Nismo upgraded item which they claim to be 1.75 times stronger than stock and installing this while my box is out to replace the clutch,if you don't want to pay the $130.00 landed for the nismo bracket can I suggest you go to the search tab of this forum and type in "weld the bitch" which will show you posts that tell you how to remove your bracket and re-inforce it to re-use and while it's out properly lube the pin etc to avoid squeaks when you re-install it then you can have piece of mind.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Edited by grey pearl
is it possible to take off the rubber grommet on the box and insert an air powered grease gun tube and wallop it onto the fork?

my mechanic did that for my pivot joint. and still needed 3 hands to do it. very awkward

Hi Intercool, I would be very careful pumping a mobile substance like grease especially under pressure into the bellhousing area as the enemy to clutches is grease or oil as anyone who has had to fix a clutch will tell you,Jim Berry told me that 95 percent of clutches he sees have oil or grease contamination factors as the main contributor of slip or eventual failure.

Some guys on this forum have explained that the best way to fix this lubrication problem for the pivot ball is to buy a can of the o-ring chain motorcycle lube which is a foamy substance and carefully peel back the boot rubber on the bell housing and with the straw provided with the can spray directly on to the cluch pivot ball to keep the lube localised and not on your clutch which will make your clutch slip and create hot spots and hardness areas on your flywheel,not good,hope this helps.Cheers Grey Pearl.

  • 4 months later...

just get some rp7 and spray around every where where the clutch pedal has springs etc. make sure to spray both sides cause sometimes u can only see one side i sprayed it and hasnt squeeked for 6 months

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