Jump to content
SAU Community

New blow off valve

howhow82
 Share

Recommended Posts

YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
Posted

The screw aloows you to adjust hte spring tension. When you are running more bosot pressure you might find it starts to leak in higher rev's so you want to tighten the srping up, however if you are not running as much boost you want to loosen it off to ensure the BOV will be able to open. However they more adjustable nowdays for rice factor to get different sounds.

YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
Posted

BOV"s are illegal for the reason being that they vent blow-by into the atmosphere... yes they can be noisey, yes they cause the car to run richer but its stated that they blow un-filtered air/oil into the atmosphere... stupid really, cos last time i checked the exhaust vented to atmo aswell?? But thats all good its only carbon monoxides and what have you, alot worse than the 'ocassional' mist of oil comin from a BOV.

P.s. Don't forget BOV's if they aren't a good design will cause crappy throttle response, and having a atmo BOV means you must re-spool that released amount of air. They have their pluses and minuses.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

As YBSLO4 mentioned BOVs are illegal if they vent to atmo, because cranck case gasses must exit the car via the exhaust, Road Traffic Act 1962 (from memory) in SA. These traffic laws are now pretty much consistant australia wide. So they MUST plumb back to be legal - like the stock one.

As for adjusting BOV, tighter will mean it takes more (boost) pressure for the valve to lift. Yes it will make less noise, but the fluttering noise you hear is air reversing through the compressor, slowing the turbo down (increasing lag) and putting strain on the turbine - this isnt too good for obvious reasons.

I adjusted mine by winding it back until the fluttering sound was almost gone. Almost, because if you wind it back too far, you may have the car stall at idle as it doesnt seal properly. Something to have a play with until you are happy.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

The only noise testing I know of that a car needs to be roadworthy has to do with the exhaust, this is done with the car at revs, and the EXHAUST is not to exceed 89dBs. This is conducted with the car at specific revs, not changing gear - so I am not sure how any copper gets away with defecting cars for excessive intake noise (how could it exceed 89dB?) or noisey BOV which wouldnt be measured if a car was being tested for compliance with noise regulations - only for atmo BOV or pod that doesnt comply with ADRs.

I have heard of people claiming to be defected for this, and I would love to know exactly what regutation/act it is that they would be in breach of?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      I for one welcome Nissda.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • Murray_Calavera
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • r32-25t
      I for one welcome Nissda.

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...