Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Restriction found...

Why would you run a 3" pipe, at the point where the gasses are their hottest, and most turbulent (IE, when they need the biggest area to flow)?

Drop the dump, and I bet power climbs. Or are you still on the screamer?

Adam told me the dump is fine for 400+. But that will be one of the things ill be changing.

Most of the dumps I've seen for 400+ have been 3.5" - 4"

And the outlet may be 3", but take a look at the big power builds, they all mouth out nearly instantly

Increasing the diameter of the exhaust at any point isnt the magic bullet unfortunately. As soon as you exceed the the most efficient diameter you start to detriment the system. 'The most efficient diameter' is the $64m question though, and obviously pretty variable.

Hot gas is less dense, so the engine doesnt have to work as hard to 'push' it out. Increasing exhaust diameter makes the gas expand quickly, cool quickly, and become dense. Obviously dense air at the beginning of the exhaust process is bad news.. it equals resistance. Think about the reasons for heat-wrapping exhaust headers - it's definitely not meant to protect intake temps.. the hotter the temperature of the exhaust gas, the 'easier' it's expelled. Increasing exhaust diameter too far decreases temperature, and therefore is inefficient.

What you've seen in real life Matt, is probably a system which is close to the most efficient diameter for the dump pipe - but I guess it depends on whether they've tested it side by side with a dump with a smaller diameter (or matching) outlet size to the turbo too! :cool:

Someone correct me if I'm talking shit, this is just my understanding :blink:

Increasing the diameter of the exhaust at any point isnt the magic bullet unfortunately. As soon as you exceed the the most efficient diameter you start to detriment the system. 'The most efficient diameter' is the $64m question though, and obviously pretty variable.

Hot gas is less dense, so the engine doesnt have to work as hard to 'push' it out. Increasing exhaust diameter makes the gas expand quickly, cool quickly, and become dense. Obviously dense air at the beginning of the exhaust process is bad news.. it equals resistance. Think about the reasons for heat-wrapping exhaust headers - it's definitely not meant to protect intake temps.. the hotter the temperature of the exhaust gas, the 'easier' it's expelled. Increasing exhaust diameter too far decreases temperature, and therefore is inefficient.

What you've seen in real life Matt, is probably a system which is close to the most efficient diameter for the dump pipe - but I guess it depends on whether they've tested it side by side with a dump with a smaller diameter (or matching) outlet size to the turbo too! :cool:

Someone correct me if I'm talking shit, this is just my understanding :blink:

You're sort of on the right track, but you also have to consider Bernoulli's theorem, which roughly states that as velocity increases, pressure decreases. (this is the basis behind the lift equation in aircraft etc). The same works in reverse, so if the velocity of the exhaust gasses decreases (due to a sudden increase in pipe diameter) the pressure will increase and impede exhaust flow.

The trick in making a perfect exhaust would be to have the pipe diameter increasing at the same rate as the exhaust is cooling, to keep the flow the same, and hence no pressure change.

Just a thought, heat wrapping your 3 inch dump may be a "band aid" fix to the problem, as you would be retaining more heat in the exhaust, which would keep the flow faster in that section. But the Ideal solution would probably be a nice transition from the 3 inch output of your turbo, to a dump that matches the rest of your exhaust.

The easiest test to find out if the dump/exhaust is being a restriction, is quite simply to drop it.

But can anyone find a car make 400RWKW with a 3" dump? Most I know of from experience run 3.5" - 4" dumps, and then a 3.5" system.

While you're say going to a smaller pipe increases speed, decreases pressure. You also have to know for a fact, that whilst you go really small, the speed of the gas might be super quick, and low pressure in that section, but the section before has been restricted down basically, and it now has a huge pressure build up.

Run too small of a dump, the pressure in the turbo / exhaust manifold starts to build up, and counteract the pressure going INTO the motor.

It's not like I said go and put a 6" dump as from experience, everyone knows that it will become detrimental to the exhaust flow.

Whilst the hotter gas is less dense, it also takes up more area. And that's the big problem, as it's exitting the turbo, exhaust gas can be as hot as 850degrees, by the time it reaches that tail pipe, a mere 200 - 400 degrees.

Half the temperature, half the density... So you need half the area for the cooler gas...

I agree, there is an art to building exhausts, bigger is not always better, but experience tells me, for 400KW, a 3" dump is too small.

no...

simply no, you are wrong

From his list, the only differences to my pos are the 3" dump (3.5), 76mm china cooler (100mm) and obv the 26 head. I'm not sure about simmo but most of the guys I know making over 400rwkw are running 3.5 or 4" drain pipes.

Edited by DCIEVE

i made 430rwkw with a 3" dump

brockas just made nearly 440rwkw with a 3" dump

rr84wa made about 420rwkw with a 3" dump

nattalotto made nearly 470rwkw with a 3" dump

thats a quick list off the top of my head...

dont forgot a shit load of exhaust flow is going through the gate at high rpm!!!

i made 430rwkw with a 3" dump

brockas just made nearly 440rwkw with a 3" dump

rr84wa made about 420rwkw with a 3" dump

nattalotto made nearly 470rwkw with a 3" dump

thats a quick list off the top of my head...

dont forgot a shit load of exhaust flow is going through the gate at high rpm!!!

all running screamers?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are fine with China turbos, Maxpeedingrods makes a bolt on turbo. Ive had mine for two summers now and it seems to be holding up ok. 
    • Howdy all Im in a little predicament and wondering what everyone’s thoughts are? I’ve had my long block rebuilt and am in the market for a turbo due to my old one having metal shavings from crank bearings (cause of rebuild) go throughout the turbos oil lines and there wheel has a little play. I’m not really aiming for any power, just trying to keep it as oem as possible, but I can’t find a turbo that’s built for the stock ecu or find something that would be a standard replacement. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions 
    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
×
×
  • Create New...