Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought the stock VCT was just a solenoid on the left which interacts with the head, didn't think it did anything with the cam gear. I also thought it was on the exhaust cam only, but could be completely wrong.

Reason I ask is there are full adjustable (change based on rpm) cam gears that look similar to what is on his intake cam, they are around $3000 though from what I've seen, fairly complex piece of hardware.

You are now never allowed to give advice on this forum again...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Exhaust is finished, work of art! I bought 2 cats, one 5inch 400cpi Euro 4 and one 5inch 100cpi.

Still the same clutch but bought an alloy flywheel from the states.

Should have the car home very soon, just some minor things to tidy up.

Pic of the mid section.

IMG_6957.jpg

ive always been a fan of the lobster back bends as i appreciate the workmanship involved - nothing beats it!

is there a performance gain from this though as 1 would think that a mendrel bend would flow better as it is a smooth curved edge & there is no weld edge on the inside of the pipe - i guess the difference is within a bees d1ck anyway lol

Edited by Marko R1

ive always been a fan of the lobster back bends as i appreciate the workmanship involved - nothing beats it!

is there a performance gain from this though as 1 would think that a mendrel bend would flow better as it is a smooth curved edge & there is no weld edge on the inside of the pipe - i guess the difference is within a bees d1ck anyway lol

past the cat it makes no difference, especially at 4 inches!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
×
×
  • Create New...