Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Total washout today, sat on our arses till 4pm.

Let us out for restricted laps, somehow blew a coolant hose off when on the gas one lap :(

Then found the oil cooler leaking pretty bad once on the garage. Going to use a 180 fitting to bypass it and throw this cooler in the bin. Pretty bad quality for an Earls item, both fittings snapped off in the past, the brazing is just really bad.

Anyway, hope to be fixed in the morning for more aquaplaning :rolleyes:

Here is a skid from the other day.

Took it back to Earls when the second fitting snapped off, Martin wouldnt replace it because he said I should have come when the first one snapped?!

I said the brazing is obviously not strong enough as both fittings have snapped off... No dice.

Brand new cooler, both fittings broke off on first use, no refund?

Pretty open and shut, try once more then take it to fair trading.

Only questions I'd have are were the hoses supported well or able to move around fatiguing the joint? And when the fittings were done up was a second spanner used on the cooler end to make sure it doesn't twist.

Crap summer to be doing skids in a high power car, eh?

Brand new cooler, both fittings broke off on first use, no refund?

Pretty open and shut, try once more then take it to fair trading.

Only questions I'd have are were the hoses supported well or able to move around fatiguing the joint? And when the fittings were done up was a second spanner used on the cooler end to make sure it doesn't twist.

Crap summer to be doing skids in a high power car, eh?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...