Jump to content
SAU Community

Nytsky's Engine Build

NYTSKY

By NYTSKY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK people the engine is finally in!

The fuel rail,fuel lines,injectors,coils,pumps,power steering and lines are all done.

All of the harnesses,plugs and connections are done also.

Just have to do the vacuum lines and move a few things about. Aswell as the gearbox and tailshaft.

Had the engine in and out 3 times as the external oil drain gave a bit of grief clearance wise. A small patch of the firewall was "massaged" back an inch and then painted. Turned out really good in the end.

Pics will be up next week :domokun:

EDIT: BRIDE seat is in too.Man that thing is snug :O

  • Replies 1.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

NYTSKY
NYTSKY
SimonR32
SimonR32

Unless you have a GTR

NYTSKY
NYTSKY

Testing out the tyres.

Posted Images

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
AWESOME!

i was hoping you'd get it in. good work dave. I spent the whole day on my brakes lol.

cya soon

Was about to give you a call on sat night Jeff. I needed an extra body to help me lift the gearbox in. But the garage floor was friggin' cold and threw in the towel :)

Thursday,Friday ill have it all finished........WOW cant believe i just typed that,the car has been off the road now for 5 months.

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted
OK people the engine is finally in!

The fuel rail,fuel lines,injectors,coils,pumps,power steering and lines are all done.

Pics will be up next week :)

NICE! Been keeping a real eye on this thread, will help me decide on whether to keep the GT30R/RB25 combination :P How hard are you going to push the tune when you do it? It'd be rude not to crack the 20psi mark!

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
NICE! Been keeping a real eye on this thread, will help me decide on whether to keep the GT30R/RB25 combination :) How hard are you going to push the tune when you do it? It'd be rude not to crack the 20psi mark!

14psi for the run in tune,and 20-22psi for the full tune.

22psi is alot of boost to run on pump fuel. See how the motor likes it on the day,though i would like to see how much i can squeeze out of the turbo before we settle on a good reliable tune/boost setting.

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted (edited)
14psi for the run in tune,and 20-22psi for the full tune.

22psi is alot of boost to run on pump fuel. See how the motor likes it on the day,though i would like to see how much i can squeeze out of the turbo before we settle on a good reliable tune/boost setting.

Ahh yeah sounds like a good idea, on both levels :) 22psi is pretty much where I'd be going high boost as well. 20-22psi is high but really a safe limit for pump gas, so long as you have a good tuner etc - I know people running way more than that, but they are certifiable.

Really looking forward to seeing the results on 20-22psi, it should go very very well.

Edited by Lithium
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Ahh yeah sounds like a good idea, on both levels :) 22psi is pretty much where I'd be going high boost as well. 20-22psi is high but really a safe limit for pump gas, so long as you have a good tuner etc. More competitive people I know are running as high as 28-29psi on pump gas (98RON) and have been for some time without issue.

29psi with a GT30R?

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted (edited)
29psi with a GT30R?

DOH I was a bit slow on editing it, I was just talking about boost level in general. No, not on a GT30R - there's probably no point going over 22psi on your setup... sounds like just the right level :)

Edited by Lithium
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well after 2 days of trying to get the gearbox on,its finally on.

But i had to remove all of my hard work and pull the motor out again!!! :D

For some silly reason the input shaft wasnt going in properly.The splines would align but stop about 10mm of being flush with the block.

So the decision was made to pull the motor out....again....for the 4th time.

Off the car the input shaft wasnt going in properly, so i removed the clutch,had alook then tried to align the clutch plate as straight as i could.

Clutch back on still didnt line up. As i was about to give up i just gave it one more half assed attempt and donk! Slid straight in.

Which kind of pissed me off because i didnt do anything different to what i had been doing for the past 11ty billion hours.

So then the box and engine went in together,which was very stressful.

But anyway the engine and trans are in,with all the ancillaries. Tail shaft will go on tomorrow.

So a week or two from now ill be getting all the piping done and she'll be ready for a drink of oil and the install of the Haltech.

Then fired up :banana:

-_-StRyDeR-_- Experienced

-_-StRyDeR-_-

Posted
Posted

should instal the haltech wiring now while your loom is out, i got a LTX12 that im installing before i put the motor in, however im also getting the engine tuned and run in before it gets into the car lol.

acually, when you put the engine back in with the gearbox attached, did you have any clearence issues with the oil return 90degree bend comming from the back of the head?? just thought about it since you have to have more of a angle to get the box in... unless you got a high engine crane and jack the car up a bit.

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Safe boost pressures come down to if your within your turbo's efficency range, and if your tuner can tune the car accordingly. Highest boosts ive seen and experienced on 98 octane was was 30lb on a 2jz making a little over 500rwhp (GT35R), and a RB3025 with 32lb making 625rwhp(custom T51 varient). 4th gear traction loss at 180K's, yes.

If your engine has the forged pistons and rods to support at least 100hp per cylinder whats holding you back...

Edited by Vspec R33
NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
should instal the haltech wiring now while your loom is out, i got a LTX12 that im installing before i put the motor in, however im also getting the engine tuned and run in before it gets into the car lol.

acually, when you put the engine back in with the gearbox attached, did you have any clearence issues with the oil return 90degree bend comming from the back of the head?? just thought about it since you have to have more of a angle to get the box in... unless you got a high engine crane and jack the car up a bit.

Im buying a flying lead for the Haltech so its plug and play.The oil drain was a bit an issue but we managed in the end.

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Safe boost pressures come down to if your within your turbo's efficency range, and if your tuner can tune the car accordingly. Highest boosts ive seen and experienced on 98 octane was was 30lb on a 2jz making a little over 500rwhp (GT35R), and a RB3025 with 32lb making 625rwhp(custom T51 varient). 4th gear traction loss at 180K's, yes.

If your engine has the forged pistons and rods to support at least 100hp per cylinder whats holding you back...

We will see how it goes when the engine is run in,i wouldnt like to boost it over 22 psi as my comp ratio is slightly higher than standard.

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted
Safe boost pressures come down to if your within your turbo's efficency range, and if your tuner can tune the car accordingly. Highest boosts ive seen and experienced on 98 octane was was 30lb on a 2jz making a little over 500rwhp (GT35R), and a RB3025 with 32lb making 625rwhp(custom T51 varient). 4th gear traction loss at 180K's, yes.

If your engine has the forged pistons and rods to support at least 100hp per cylinder whats holding you back...

The GT3076R when I looked for and chose one looked like it'd be best used at around 22psi on a built RB25DET so there isn't a huge amount of use for it over that. Its a nice not overly laggy turbo on an RB25 so with 22psi there should be a huge fat power delivery, it'll be wicked for a road car that can do drag and track. Just because the engine CAN make 100hp/cyl doesn't mean you are obliged to - it just adds one part of the equation to get what you want out of it.

Highest power pump gas/power per litre car I've been in was a still 2litre EVO 2 running a .82a/r GT3582R running ~2bar of boost putting down just under 500whp (125whp/cyl), way faster than any daily driveable 4cyl street car should be.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...