Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bloody hell!! im getting me a 3076!!!

Is it possible that the boost dropping off is because the turbo is starting to run outta puff?

Yeh we think the .82 is at its limit, this turbo is only meant to produce 525 engine horsepower lol

More likey exhaust gas pressure in the turbine housing. Unfortunately, turbine sizing is a trade off between response/spool and hp.

PJ is running this turbo on an SR and it is holding 25psi at 7400rpm - but he runs a T25/T28 HKS 1.12 ex housing vs NYTSKY's T3 Garrett .82.

I've no doubt there's still more in NYTSKY's setup if boost could be held - you can see the torque curve closely mimics the boost curve. If you can hold boost, torque will pull up and therefore hp at a given rpm. However, this maybe all that can be practically pushed through the .82 ex housing.

In any case its an awesome setup for a street car and no doubt more than a handfull for most of us. :thumbsup:

As soon as PJ put on the bigger housing the increase in HP was about 25rwkw from memory,

sweet. :) that is good power mate. it will be a big handful to punish now. :yes:

Thanks Richard! Taking the car to Skids on Sunday, so we will see how much of a handful it will be :)

Yeah its hard to say at this stage, he might just be pushing all the thing is keen to all around. I have seen higher numbers from them, but from more aggressive engine/boost/fuel setups and its hard to tell how dynos compare. 363rwkw on a Mainline is fair roaring it out, I'd expect this thing to be one of the more brutal "all around" RB25 setups anywhere.

Thanks for the comment! It will be and "all rounder" when i get this box sorted out.

Very nice Dave, very nice indeed!

Cheers mate :thumbsup:

Took the car out to stretch its legs.

All i can say is i need bigger brakes lol

Very punchy down low and just builds huge power all the way through.

But the rear end feels like its floating around under load. Ill need to get that looked at.

aftermarket diff? best thing I ever did to improve rear end feel in the GTSt

nice power curve BTW... I've got the same top end power in the R but yours is coming on way earlier and more linear... a good 500rpm earlier... gotta love the RB25 VCT... I'm assuming its is still standard capacity?

that E85 look like good stuff, wish we could get it reliably down here:(

it's about a 40 min drive from my work, 60 or so from home... If there was a closer one, I probably would have gone E85 by now...

I doubt i will for a while now that my tuner has farked awf to Georgie... :D lol

I really hope there are more in the next 12 months or so. I don't want this to go the some route as V Power Racing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...