Jump to content
SAU Community

Just had my R33 dynod today...

gjb977
 Share

Recommended Posts

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted

I've posted them elsewhere but anyway....

1995 R33 GTS-T (red coz red is faster)

75,500km

Motul Engine Oil

FMIC

HKS Pod (no box or cold air feed)

2 stage boost controller (7psi / 12psi)

Custom 3" Front/Dump/Cat

Nismo 3" Cat-back

Standard Turbo

Standard ECU

Shootout mode

7psi = 190rwkw

12psi = 203rwkw (leaning out)

Standard mode

7psi = 177rwkw

12psi = 188rwkw

At the end of the day though its just numbers (hopefully that i'll turn into a 13.Xsec pass down the 1/4 in the not too distant future).

I'm also confident that I can get it alittle higher, maybe another 5-8rwkw from afew more cheap mods over the next 2-3mths.

dyno-203rwkw.jpg

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Roy13

a std R33 has only 138rwkw's

Thats debatable as it depends on the condition of the ending. But yeah ~140rwkw is probably about right.

what is a FMIC?

Front Mount Intercooler.

franks Veteran

franks

Posted
Posted

benm, you think all stock ecu's run close to 12:1 afr at 12psi and have the afr line anywhere near close to that??? i dont think so dude!!! :D you have a chipped stocky ecu. stock ecu's with stock boost run around 10.5:1 afr! yours is being leaned out somehow and i suspect thats the reason for your very impressive dyno results.

as for my car, i'm happy with the power its making, its not all about peak power, its the area under the graph that counts. that said, i know where i can find power, my intake pipe is crushing under load i need to replace it with a fabricated pipe, as the HPI 34 did...

Roy13 Enthusiast

Roy13

Posted
Posted

Benm this is what a std computer does, the lowest line is std boost at the time i think 8psi. The next line 14psi and the top line 12psi. Look at you 12 psi compared to mine std computers trip out over the mass of air going throught the air flow meter.

All R33 with FMIC, aftermarket computers and 15psi of boost only just make 203rwkw, just curios as to what is going on, my main idea is that you boost gauge is telling porkies! You may actually be running 15psi. Your injectors arn't going lean as they are good for about 215rwkw's.

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Roy13

All R33 with FMIC, aftermarket computers and 15psi of boost only just make 203rwkw

Says who? Theirs no rule or law that says all cars make the same amount of power with the same mods. Infact i'd give u $100 if u could find 2 cars with identical mods making identical power outputs.

my main idea is that you boost gauge is telling porkies!

Whats my boost guage got to do with anything? The boost "gauge" has nothing to do with a dyno run. The boost is measured on the computer (Alot more accurately too).

Your injectors arn't going lean as they are good for about 215rwkw's.

Technically and in theory yes, but my injectors are 8yrs old and so is my fuel pump so who knows what they are "actually" running at. One thing I have learnt with cars (and dyno runs) is that you can't expect to bolt on the same mod as the guy (or gal) next to you and expect the same power increase, coz it just doesn't happen.

Also like i said... at the end of the day its just numbers. I'm 20sec slower around a track than a stock R33 considering I have more power. It doesn't all come down to power, thats just 1 thing of many.

I'm now chasing that 20sec not the 20kw.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

Robo's, that's pretty normal. The higher the pressure the more fuel the ECU usually dumps in unless dictated otherwise by tuning. When you see the opposite it means you have maxed out your fuel system (pump/injectors).

Roy13 Enthusiast

Roy13

Posted
Posted

Benm i'm not trying to give you a hard time , and i'm not all R33 with these mods get 203rwkw just that 203 is the most i've ever seen with all these mods they seen to vary from 190 to 203rwkw's with those mods.

My sugesting you boost gauge is saying i have never seen a R33 produce 203rwkw on 12psi, so my sugestion being maybe the dyno's preasure sensor is incorectly calibrated and you were actually producing 15psi. As you do have a 95 which seem to be the go with std computers!!

You have a point with your injectors but with problems as you sugest a graph of air fuel would not be so perfect i am to think. I am telling you this as nobody could give me any feed back on my dyno sheet.

If you wish to gain time not kw's i suggest using a plenom that faces the front mount and reducing the length of all the pipes and maybe diametre if you are going to only use the std turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...