My Rb26 Rebuilt, But..!

[WHITEBEAST]

Hi all,

Been a while since I got my baby back now, done 2000 khms, got my clutch reco'd (twin plate nismo spring button spring), and been having issues with it since. Been on the path of many different things, still not coming up with options to resolve the matter fully. Apart from the obvious and spending a huge some of money on upgrading. Which is most probably path i'll have to choose.

First off all, the workshop that rebuilt it, has rushed the job out the door half done I believe. Found a vacuum line from a factory unit (unknown, mounted on the left hand side of upper fire wall) to the back of the intake manifold broken (reconnected now), boost control valve solenoid vacuum lines blocked off due to a faulty solenoid. I have reconnected the boost control vacuum lines with a tap control which is now allowing the waste gate actuator to work properly now I guess. The original one uses a diode built in the solenoid to protect the ECU, I am waiting on a N/C 12v vacuum control solenoid and I will wire in a diode. Does anyone know if that solenoid is N/C solenoid, I gathered it is. Does the original R32 GTR ECU require this signal for the ECU.

I’ve got a surging issue under light load to full load, from about 2000 rpm and then under no throttle that has slowly been growing from intermittent, to constant (maybe C.A.S, P.T.U, T.P.S, M.A.F's, or even the O2 sensor), been running very rich as well. I recently also replaced the original ignition coil packs with spitfire ones, gathering it may have also been a coils insulation breaking down when engine temperature warmed up. Which hasn't made much difference? Also thinking problem might be coming from air + fuel mixtures + timing. Since a have started reconnecting sensors and vacuum lines, the tuning seems to be getting worse. Was thinking about getting a 2^nd hand Apexi Power FC 'PRO' drag use one, with ignition cut instead of fuel cut, has better launch control and rev limiter settings as well. Think it's easier to setup a M.A.P intake, If I ever decide to go this path with the Z32 pods or Apexi or another aftermarket setup.

Has anyone used this ECU for street use and track day use?

Has anyone used a AVC–R boost controller with this setup?

Has anyone used M.A.P's with these two setups?

Also have had bearing noise coming from cam belt cover I thought, which I was told it was from the over tensioning of a new belt he put on, told me it should go away. In fact the pulleys were stuffed, replaced the pulleys and it still hasn’t fixed the noise. Should of replaced belt as well damn it. It looks good though. Can’t understand how a mechanic could even warranty such a expensive motor with old pulleys that where about to seize. Oh well, never shall return to him. Been looking for other tuning specialist, not at a real expensive price.

I have contacted Dr Drift in Sunbury, Melbourne. As this is the side of Melbourne closest to me (Bendigo). He was telling me not to worry about upgrading my ECU just yet, till I really wanted to. I need new turbo’s now (oil seals in turbo’s are starting to let go. Found a little oil in intake side of turbo’s, after and MAF’s.

The turbo’s of choice are the Garrett GTSS 2830’s -7. Heard they are good for track use. Anyone using them?

Just reading about MAF’s and supposedly the RB25 MAF’s are a good upgrade for the GTR. Does anyone know about this?

Will be looking at getting upgraded fuel system very soon, what kind of flow rate would be good for street/track car running 25 PSI tops, using SARD injectors (600–700 hp)? Also wondering about what fuel line size I should use, thinking the standard lines should be good for the pressure? I was under the impression that I just needed to add another high flow fuel pump after a surge tank, is this correct?

I have got it booked in for a dyno run to make sure it isn’t leaning out at the best mechanic I could find in my home town/city, so I can drive it to Melbourne for further tuning, hopefully on the day it might fix some of issue (intermittent surging that has been getting worse). Don’t think it is the cam timing. Belt was that tight, it couldn’t slip and it didn’t have the issue when I first got the car back. So I am still thinking it is a sensor. Shall find it eventually…..,

any input on this topic would be much appreciated.

Thankyou.

WHITEBEAST.

[WHITEBEAST]

Bump, bump. Anyone?

Thinking about spending a little money on engine bay to justify the money that went into the engine. Was going to paint the engine covers, maybe white with a red tint in the gloss, and also heat shrink the ignition loom with over size extra heat temp. heat shrink. Prob blue to suit the spitfire coils.

Can you buy new wiring loom plugs for this loom? Or can you pop out the wires from the terminals yourself? Wouldn't mind re-wiring this loom, as it is looks like it has had better days.

Does anyone know if SkylinesAustralia is heading towards Winton Raceway anytime time soon?

Edited March 16, 2008 by WHITEBEAST

[WHITEBEAST]

Bump. -

[Yawn]

The PFC pro is a good little unit. What do you mean run a MAP sensor setup with z32 AFMs?

First of all MAP sensors are harder to work with, so if you want to keep things simple just stick with the z32s.

Yes, the 2860 -7s are good, equivalent to GT-SS's, most repsonsive solution if you are aiming for just over 300rwkw.

Thats all I could bring myself to read

Edited March 16, 2008 by Yawn

[ylwgtr2]

id say this.....sit down and fix all the problems and get the thing to run 100 percent first before you worry about modding the thing...

[Trent04]

+1

[GeeTR]

Hi all,

Been a while since I got my baby back now, done 2000 khms, got my clutch reco'd (twin plate nismo spring button spring), and been having issues with it since. Been on the path of many different things, still not coming up with options to resolve the matter fully. Apart from the obvious and spending a huge some of money on upgrading. Which is most probably path i'll have to choose.

First off all, the workshop that rebuilt it, has rushed the job out the door half done I believe. Found a vacuum line from a factory unit (unknown, mounted on the left hand side of upper fire wall) to the back of the intake manifold broken (reconnected now), boost control valve solenoid vacuum lines blocked off due to a faulty solenoid. I have reconnected the boost control vacuum lines with a tap control which is now allowing the waste gate actuator to work properly now I guess. The original one uses a diode built in the solenoid to protect the ECU, I am waiting on a N/C 12v vacuum control solenoid and I will wire in a diode. Does anyone know if that solenoid is N/C solenoid, I gathered it is. Does the original R32 GTR ECU require this signal for the ECU.

I've got a surging issue under light load to full load, from about 2000 rpm and then under no throttle that has slowly been growing from intermittent, to constant (maybe C.A.S, P.T.U, T.P.S, M.A.F's, or even the O2 sensor), been running very rich as well. I recently also replaced the original ignition coil packs with spitfire ones, gathering it may have also been a coils insulation breaking down when engine temperature warmed up. Which hasn't made much difference? Also thinking problem might be coming from air + fuel mixtures + timing. Since a have started reconnecting sensors and vacuum lines, the tuning seems to be getting worse. Was thinking about getting a 2^nd hand Apexi Power FC 'PRO' drag use one, with ignition cut instead of fuel cut, has better launch control and rev limiter settings as well. Think it's easier to setup a M.A.P intake, If I ever decide to go this path with the Z32 pods or Apexi or another aftermarket setup.

Has anyone used this ECU for street use and track day use?

Has anyone used a AVC–R boost controller with this setup?

Has anyone used M.A.P's with these two setups?

Also have had bearing noise coming from cam belt cover I thought, which I was told it was from the over tensioning of a new belt he put on, told me it should go away. In fact the pulleys were stuffed, replaced the pulleys and it still hasn't fixed the noise. Should of replaced belt as well damn it. It looks good though. Can't understand how a mechanic could even warranty such a expensive motor with old pulleys that where about to seize. Oh well, never shall return to him. Been looking for other tuning specialist, not at a real expensive price.

I have contacted Dr Drift in Sunbury, Melbourne. As this is the side of Melbourne closest to me (Bendigo). He was telling me not to worry about upgrading my ECU just yet, till I really wanted to. I need new turbo's now (oil seals in turbo's are starting to let go. Found a little oil in intake side of turbo's, after and MAF's.

The turbo's of choice are the Garrett GTSS 2830's -7. Heard they are good for track use. Anyone using them?

Just reading about MAF's and supposedly the RB25 MAF's are a good upgrade for the GTR. Does anyone know about this?

Will be looking at getting upgraded fuel system very soon, what kind of flow rate would be good for street/track car running 25 PSI tops, using SARD injectors (600–700 hp)? Also wondering about what fuel line size I should use, thinking the standard lines should be good for the pressure? I was under the impression that I just needed to add another high flow fuel pump after a surge tank, is this correct?

I have got it booked in for a dyno run to make sure it isn't leaning out at the best mechanic I could find in my home town/city, so I can drive it to Melbourne for further tuning, hopefully on the day it might fix some of issue (intermittent surging that has been getting worse). Don't think it is the cam timing. Belt was that tight, it couldn't slip and it didn't have the issue when I first got the car back. So I am still thinking it is a sensor. Shall find it eventually…..,

any input on this topic would be much appreciated.

Thankyou.

WHITEBEAST.

Now tell us your life story!.... ;0

Does the original R32 GTR ECU require this signal for the ECU

No, i dont think so. It will just push an error code.

Also have had bearing noise coming from cam belt cover I thought, which I was told it was from the over tensioning of a new belt he put on, told me it should go away. In fact the pulleys were stuffed, replaced the pulleys and it still hasn't fixed the noise. Should of replaced belt as well damn it. It looks good though. Can't understand how a mechanic could even warranty such a expensive motor with old pulleys that where about to seize. Oh well, never shall return to him.

When I fitted new Gates belt, OEM tensior and follower, it was deff noisier and "whiney" I'd tensioned to normal (10mm deflection) but still.. noise. It then slowly dissapeared after a few 1000 KM's.

I could go on qouting your post.. and responding with what "I" think, plus that from SAU.. but im too tired. Saw your blog... you need to search dood. Almost all your Q's have had some coverage

Im not a f_ckwit i swear. Im just saying, look around, its all been covered.

Start with the small shit, work you way up till all your little issues are gone.

Good Luck Homie

[WHITEBEAST]

Going to start testing all my sensors. AFM's, O2 Sensors, C.A.S, TPS and if I get the chance the AAC valve on manifold.

Hope I find something. On way home from work tonight, I took off with a bit of a squirt, and spotted alot of black smoke (real dark). Never seen this much smoke come out of the new engine , Think it was alot of fuel. AFM's can cause this, fuel + air mixture issues, or the O2 sensor. Who's bidding! lol

Please be a O2 sensor!

[GeeTR]

02 sensor feeds the ECU, when in closed loop mode... only in light load/ idle conditions.

It wouldn't cause the richness you got when "giving it a squirt"

[WHITEBEAST]

Ok, I tested some sensors.

Seemed to of fixed the problem whilst testing, completed test when cold (ECU looped circuited) and then once problem was occurring tested again. Tested A.F.M's. Tested air temperature and engine temperature sensors. When problem was occuring after running for about 20 mins under normal load. I thought I would test the P.T.U (Power Transistor Unit) which I started the first test by placing in a look tight bag in the freezer for about an hour. It wasn't as bad for about 2 mins under load. So gathered might be on right track. The next day got the contact cleaner out and cleaned some terminals and tested the continuity of the loom and continuity of P.T.U when cold, seemed fine. That was when I went to plug loom back into the P.T.U and it refused to. So I removed a rubber water seal from the plug and it clipped straight in. Took it for a drive and havn't had a problem since.

[WHITEBEAST]

Thought I’d look at another issue with my gearbox (transfer case) looking for a noise under full load off the mark. Bad clunking/banging noise coming from shafts or clutches in transfer case. What I was thinking. I’ll change the oil and get around to buying some rear tyres (nearly bald). So, a easy solution was to disconnect the 4WD by pulling the fuse in fuse panel and one under bonnet (heard the R32 GTR is ok do this, for it doesn’t have pre-loading torque to front diff constantly), is this correct? Can I leave the fuseable link in under bonnetand just pull 10 amp fuse? Still getting a ABS light on dash.

How much FUN is it now!

Was thinking about hooking up a toggle switch for the 4WD/2WD. To much fun not to have. And a little to much fun for wet roads.