Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A while ago the tensioner bearing went in my engine and i had to replace it myself on account of not being able to drive + having the car at the bottom of a hill, from memory the last time i tried to turn it over it stuttered , tried to start and then stalled, so i'm thinking/worried(if it's possible from all the strain of no tensioner bearing (it had no bearings in it)) the belt may have skipped a few gears and it threw the timing out.

I am going to Adjust it so it's TDC tonight but am not sure how to line up the inlet/exhaust cams. I have noticed theres 2 white marks on the backing plate (behind the gears) and another two white marks on the actual gears, i'm guessing these have to line up right? One of them is about 4 or 5 teeth out of sync it seems (as in if i straightened the inlet 1 to line up the exhaust one would still be out by about 20 degrees)

Anyways, so do i just make sure the engines TDC, and line up the white marks from hand, put the belt on and hope from there? (also theres a white mark on the little cover that goes over the exhaust cam, do i disregard this?)

Any helps cool, thx

theres usually either painted marks or imprinted dots and slashes on the backing plate line these up as well you will need to line the bottom crank one up and that should bring it back to TDC The marks on the front covers are usually to adjust timing from tdc like on the rb25det where the CAS sits to line it up at 15 deg btdc

That should help

Cheers

Yo, i have a workshop manual, but at 800 pages, and in PDF format (can't search) i'm not getting very far with it. (alot of the articles in it are just pull apart pictures, and guides on how to use special nissan-specific tools)

I couldnt see a mark on the crank pulley unfortunately, the only marking on it is slot for the key, so i was just going to pull a plug out and rotate the engine manually until it was tdc and go from there, was a bit worried i might bent something though?

Edited by GTAAAH

dude there will definitely be a mark on the crank gear. it's a little 'indent'...

when it's TDC the mark should be in the lower right side of the gear -looking at the engine/car from the front.

oh cheers for the link, dunno how i missed that one, i guess ima have to get my head right down in front it to find these crank pulley markings (not harmonic balancer markings) i want to get this damn thing on the road and would love to just tow it somewhere but i just bought another car and have no $ z

Come to think of it, i can line up the crank using the markings on the balancer anyway as it's keyed to the pulley

Edited by GTAAAH

the way you can tell if the bottom of the engine is on top dead center is to check the keyways, they should be facing up in the middle.

As well on the timing gear that the belt runs on, there is a . which marks up to the indent on the oil pump.

yeah if you've got away with this you are very lucky.

DECIM8 the gtr manual is scans so search doesn't work (unless you run some sort of OCR over it first). But timing belt is on EN-59 onwards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How much is it to re-uploster?  Well that's a "how longs a piece of string?" question !  And I answer thusly: "twice half its length! " . . . . . .  Seriously you'll have to chase multiple quotes for that one from different uphlostrerereres !  Ask around, in your area and on the forums, chase reviews and most of all see the finished product in person cause photoshop is a wonderful thing !
    • Hey everyone!!  I've noticed that whenever I do my oil changes, after putting 4L in, the oil level sits at the top mark in the dipstick. This is after letting the old oil drain for a very long time too! I've checked the oil level daily for the past few mornings. It happens every time and it's confusing because all the threads say that it should take about 4.7L (With some just adding the full 5L) My next thought is to figure out if the dipstick I have is correct so could someone please tell me the length of the RB25DET engine oil dipstick?  I've checked images of some of the genuine dipsticks, but none of them have the length in it. https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-engine-oil-level-dipstick-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-stagea-c35-laurel-y34-cedric-gloria-rb25de-t-neo?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOortQXofgmiHVRKuIaiKuygL4k0Ewp68c3isGZk0vvKOJ7Yqf3iB However.... the engraving on the genuine ones say 05002 while mine says AA000. This makes me believe that maybe I have a wrong dipstick? I just want to confirm before I buy a new one. The car is a fresh import from Japan so I don't have details of the previous owner to ask him. Thanks in advance 🙏🏾 
    • Sport. I didn’t rebleed it cause I just removed the slave and left connected.    I will change line and slave and see how it goes.  
    • Oh and how is the rattle when foot is on the clutch ?
    • Did you get the sport or track ? From what the documentation says the uniclutch has a small amount of movement to disengage.  So your story of tricky pedal setup seems common.    Hopefully you got it bled up too, as the bite point moving around is usually either plates wearing in or air in the line.     
×
×
  • Create New...