Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Belt Off.. Need To Put It Back On

GTAAAH

By GTAAAH,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
Posted

A while ago the tensioner bearing went in my engine and i had to replace it myself on account of not being able to drive + having the car at the bottom of a hill, from memory the last time i tried to turn it over it stuttered , tried to start and then stalled, so i'm thinking/worried(if it's possible from all the strain of no tensioner bearing (it had no bearings in it)) the belt may have skipped a few gears and it threw the timing out.

I am going to Adjust it so it's TDC tonight but am not sure how to line up the inlet/exhaust cams. I have noticed theres 2 white marks on the backing plate (behind the gears) and another two white marks on the actual gears, i'm guessing these have to line up right? One of them is about 4 or 5 teeth out of sync it seems (as in if i straightened the inlet 1 to line up the exhaust one would still be out by about 20 degrees)

Anyways, so do i just make sure the engines TDC, and line up the white marks from hand, put the belt on and hope from there? (also theres a white mark on the little cover that goes over the exhaust cam, do i disregard this?)

Any helps cool, thx

Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

theres usually either painted marks or imprinted dots and slashes on the backing plate line these up as well you will need to line the bottom crank one up and that should bring it back to TDC The marks on the front covers are usually to adjust timing from tdc like on the rb25det where the CAS sits to line it up at 15 deg btdc

That should help

Cheers

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yo, i have a workshop manual, but at 800 pages, and in PDF format (can't search) i'm not getting very far with it. (alot of the articles in it are just pull apart pictures, and guides on how to use special nissan-specific tools)

I couldnt see a mark on the crank pulley unfortunately, the only marking on it is slot for the key, so i was just going to pull a plug out and rotate the engine manually until it was tdc and go from there, was a bit worried i might bent something though?

Edited by GTAAAH
made_guy Experienced

made_guy

Posted
Posted

dude there will definitely be a mark on the crank gear. it's a little 'indent'...

when it's TDC the mark should be in the lower right side of the gear -looking at the engine/car from the front.

GTAAAH Mentor

GTAAAH

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

oh cheers for the link, dunno how i missed that one, i guess ima have to get my head right down in front it to find these crank pulley markings (not harmonic balancer markings) i want to get this damn thing on the road and would love to just tow it somewhere but i just bought another car and have no $ z

Come to think of it, i can line up the crank using the markings on the balancer anyway as it's keyed to the pulley

Edited by GTAAAH
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

the way you can tell if the bottom of the engine is on top dead center is to check the keyways, they should be facing up in the middle.

As well on the timing gear that the belt runs on, there is a . which marks up to the indent on the oil pump.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

yeah if you've got away with this you are very lucky.

DECIM8 the gtr manual is scans so search doesn't work (unless you run some sort of OCR over it first). But timing belt is on EN-59 onwards.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...