Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently went for a top speed test in my car, even though it has a 180km/h speedo ;) (In closed course test conditions only). However it has this annoying, and slightly suvere engine cut at 7500rpm in 3rd, 6000rpm in 4th, 6000rpm in 5th, which is around 220-230km/h. Is this normal, the speed cut or something? If so, i thought it would be quite gentle, and at 180km/h. Its like you turn the ignition off for around 6 or 7 secs, then fires back up. Happens the same revs in those gears each time, so it wasnt a random thing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21082-3rd-4th-5th-gear-engine-cut/
Share on other sites

it's called Rev limiter...... 7200 rpm max.....that is a violent shudder

Speed Limiter:

the car should go duuh dsuuh duuh duuuh duuuh duuuhh when 180kph

more of a strong vibration shudder......

Well that's what i feel.... on the track

:P

Could be maxing out the AFM and it flows more when you load it down in higher gears... how much boost are you running?

If your hitting 230 ish that's way past the factory speed cut on the ECU and i would say that either, A: whoever installed the RB20 in your 180SX didn't hook up wire 53 (Speed sensor to ECU), or B: Your ECU's been chipped and the limiter removed (if this is the case it shouldn't air flow cut)

Doc.

Hmm.. when you say 230 at the wheels, KW or HP? It wont be puttting out 230kw, at the moment i have these mods:

RB25 turbo @ 14psi

3" turbo back exhaust, with seperate dump

PWR FMIC

Pod Filter mounted behind front bumper

Stock un-chipped ecu

Stock afm, just taken rear mesh off but did it before that came off

It has also happened in 2nd gear, when i was doing a burnout up a hill, it was revving between 7500-8000rpm and was pinned for a 10 secs or so, its pretty dangerous because the engine just shuts down for around 5-10secs then takes off again. Also my BOV leaks around 1bar, not sure if this would cause a problem but im going to get another one.

Originally posted by Cool Hand Luke

Hmm.. when you say 230 at the wheels, KW or HP?

I was actually refering to your speed.... If you can go past 190 km/h (some 180 speed cuts are a little off) then either your speed sensor wire #53 is not hooked up, or it's chipped.

If i ran a diagnostics wouldnt it say if wire 53 was not hooked up? If it isnt hooked up what will it do? Also if the AFM is maxing out, why? I was told it would be good to a bit over 200rwkw, and cant see that my car would be making that much power. Ive been curious if it had been chipped before, because i have problems with detonation at 5700-6500rpm, but if i run octane boost it is fine. Just guessing that it was mapped for japanese fuel, not ours.

Do you mean take the kick panel off and take a photo, or take the ecu apart and take a photo of its insides? As for the cut, i guess so. But it will cut out in 3-5th gears any time.. Ive only reached 6000rpm in 4th and 5th at night, and ive only had the car for a few months so its always been cold. But it has cut out in 2nd early morning last week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...