Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heyaa all,

Im gettin my SAFC II Tune really soon, and read soo much bout a/fuel ratio, lots of people giving me all sorts of figures

from 11.5:1 - 12.5:1.

So pretty simple question,

I want my car to be on a safe tune, so if i were to go out on a cold nite and it lean out a little, it'll still be safe. ( I go out at night heaps )

Mods are as followed:

R33 S1.5

Stock Turbo @ 10psi ( no boost controller )

3" Turboback with no resonators

Pod with shield ( no cai )

Greddy Front mount

SAFC II

Walbro Fuel pump

So from what i gathered from the forums is this wat the a/fuel ratio should be:

Full Throttle - Below 4500rpm - 12.5:1

After 4500rpm - 12:1

Lo Throttle - 14.5:1

With these a/f and my mods you guys recon i will make 190-200rwkw ? Reliablely ???

I never seen partial throttle been tuned on a dyno before ? I only seen WOT power runs, So how do they do it ? Just wanted to know for knownledge sakes.

Any help and advice would be really greatful !

keep in mind you may not get a 12:1 on a safc. you may have to settle for an 11:1. its about finding the balance with a safc.

the more fuel you have to take out of the map (or the more you bend the afm signal), as is the case with most 33's, the more it screws with your timing aswell. take out too much fuel and your ecu may retard the timing too much and you will get knock.

yeah i got an apexi neo afc..

ive had mine tuned wice to get it right, but then i lowered the % of the low throttle..

to increase fuel eco...lol but got it all good..

i get lik 400-500k's outa my tank..

but i change on high-throttle around 2500-3000-3500rpm.. i made 0 % which means no change by the afc/neo

on idle my car is -12% on the a/f ratio %'s..

but its a great product and recommend..

but stil get an aftermarket ecu...

really depends on your usage .

street use then 14.7:1 - 15:1 cruise and 12.5 :1 for full throttle

if using on track then 11.5:1 - 11:1 for full throttle .

if its too lean at 12.5:1 on the track under full throttle conditions than you will produce to much heat and cause undue pinging and under bonnet temp will be significally higher. (known from experience )

but yes you are on the ball park with the ratios that you where given

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The above video is working normally. That is, that's how the right hand indicator should cancel when rotating the wheel left.
    • I noticed that I could see creatures on the moon when I turned my new headlights on. I thought I should check the alignment. It's pretty rudimentary but I just grabbed some dry wall and put it against my tablet and made sure the beam was below the height on the headlights. Ie the beam is at 600mm on my car, I just made it lower than that 7.5m away.  Not the best but it'll do until I can do it properly at the local shops.   
    • As @Duncan said - the bores are most likely to cop it. But anything can and does happen. Rods are cheap. Rods are good. The work to rebuild the motor will be 30x the price of rods. You won't notice it.
    • Yeah car has 110 on the clock. That said the front turbo (that exploded) doesn't seem to be the original, it has a S1 part number but the car is a series 3. Yep, in the cat is where I first found the turbine wheel pieces - a couple decent sized ones, then a whole lot of fragments.  I agree, probably makes sense to upgrade parts that are being replaced. Things like rods would be 'nice' but realistically it seems unlikely they would need replacing. I was hoping that it was a case that they generally f**k up the valves but not the bore, or vice versa. Is it generally the scour damage rather than ceramic bits getting mashed into the piston tops / valves? I tried a search but couldn't find any threads with pics from the guts of a motor that's had this happen. 
    • Front seats now in, fixing a little rust then front doors sealed up again finished. had to install a fire extinguisher within arms distance of drivers seat for hill climb regulations. little bit of good old silo diff action lol IMG_9146.mov
×
×
  • Create New...