Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

I'm getting rid of some standard bits and pieces around my house which i have taken off my car! I'm located in BrisVegas, so for some of the bigger items pickup is preferred.

If you are interested in any items just let me know:

Contact: email: stevieboy_86@hotmail.com or PM if interested

Item: Series 1 R34 GTT Spoiler (White)

Condition: Used - still works fine

Price: $200

To Fit: R34 GTT's, maybe 33's depending on existing boot holes

Item: R34 GTT SMIC

Condition: Used - in good condition

Price: $180

To Fit: I've heard that it is a great upgrade for 33 & 32 GTST's

Item: Standard R34 Airbox

Age: looks new

Condition: very good condition

Price: $20

To Fit: R34 GTT

Item: Standard R34 GTT Turbo

Condition: Works fantastic on my car at the moment. never been boosted. Has never run over 11psi.

Price: $400

Comments: The turbo is currently still on my car - I have purchased a new turbo and will be taking it off in the next month or so(upgrade :)), so if you are interested let me know and I will contact all interested parties when it is ready for sale.

Item: 10" Kicker Sub in Ported QMax sub box

Condition: used - in perfect working order (still pumps for a 10")

Price: $100

Item: Standard R34 GTT suspension

Age: Used

Condition: Very good condition

Price: $150

To Fit: R34 GTT, maybe others

Comments: reason for sale: Upgrade

I can provide pics of anything, just let me know :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210913-r34-gtt-bits-and-pieces/
Share on other sites

Hey,

yeah it includes everything upto the AFM. I'm located about 10 mins south of the city down the M1. :thumbsup:

Hi,

Intrested in the Air Box . Does it included the air guide into the box? Where are you located? Cheers

Thats because he msg me...

Is the airbox still for sale?

Unfortunately mate its sold pending payment. I'll let you know straight away if it falls through.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...