Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My gtr has got squeeky brakes and it is p*ssing me off... just wanted to know if any1 has any quick an easy solutions.. it gets worse as the car heats up and the pads seem to have plenty left on them..

Cheers,

Edited by 02_FNE

your discs may need machining, as said above if they have glazed they will make noise, using anti-break squeel spray only masks the sound untill they heat up again, with my commodore i used to get discs lightly machined every time my pads were changed.

some pads claim to be anti squeel, anti dust, but from my experience disc condition is a contributer to brakes reaction and performance.

  • 2 weeks later...
you may also have performance pads which tend to squeal more.

if you don't use your brakes hard, try putting standard pads back in, but expect pad fade when they get really hot

hi mate if you want to stop your brakes from sqeeling file down the leading edge

I'll be the voice of reason here. . . Simple Fix = DOSEN'T EXIST!!! You really need to give a more detailed assessment of of what is happening (worse when hot! is it, lightly braking, hard braking, trail braking? etc.) and your ability to actually fix the problem (I would assume by asking this question you are not in the trade but can you handle, and own, tools?).

Then there is what discs you have and what condition they are in (lipped? etc.). What brake pads you have.

My suggestion assuming you have reasonable street pads and your discs don't have massive lips on them - Take it to a good machanic and ask them to

1, dissassemble the brake assembly and clean EVERYTHING. As in slide pins, retainer springs, ALL the shims front and back (skylines have quite a few), the pads (as in the backing where the shims go) and so on

2, deglaze your front pads by rubbing them on coarse concrete. Still the best method used.

3, #BIG NOTE# skylines have a straight edge on the bottom of there pads. This needs to have a semi moon or cresent filed out of it to match the sweep of the inner edge lip of the worn disc (1 or 2mm)

4, have the disc removed and degazed using sand paper or a biscuit wheel on both sides

5, #BIG NOTE 2# get the inner and outter lips on both sides of the disc, steel wheeled or steel biscuited as well to remove a lot of the rust and crap that builds up. And to litterally take the edge off things!

6, All contacting sufaces ( back of brake pads, both sides of ALL shims, slide pins etc.) MUST have anti-rattle grease applied (you can get it in a can)

7, reassemble and it should be sweet.

3 and 5 are the major ones to note in my opinion and from what i've seen

Hope that helps a few people.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...