Jump to content
SAU Community

Superlap Timeattack Is Ago!

giant

By giant,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
Your on the money there phunky,,,no need for hi octane "sparco" expensive ones. Cheap crap supercheap and the like are cool,,but they have to be bolted as ADZ says as well as with big-arse washers,.,,NO rivets.

Neil

There are two ways to look at it. 1) is grab a cheapie so that you pass scrutineering and hope you dont need it. 2) Grab a more expensive unit just in case you need it.

The cheap ones would not put out my ass hairs after lighting a fart. Those that have had the misfortune of a fire know that the extra dollars are worth it, could be the difference of containing a fire until the big boys arrive on the scene and extinguish the fire

Neil Grand Master

Neil

Posted
Posted

Yea Roy,,,I know where your comimg from buddy,,,but the little one won't put out my ciggy or your arse hairs,,,,are you still lighting your farts mate and by the time the big boys get to the car its maybe kinda all over. Small oil fires are easy but it can turn into a fuel fire which is the one I'm running away from. My car has a bomb which is what all race cars have,,,but this is basically a long winded supersprint.

Neil.

fatz Grand Master

fatz

Posted
Posted
There are two ways to look at it. 1) is grab a cheapie so that you pass scrutineering and hope you dont need it. 2) Grab a more expensive unit just in case you need it.

The cheap ones would not put out my ass hairs after lighting a fart. Those that have had the misfortune of a fire know that the extra dollars are worth it, could be the difference of containing a fire until the big boys arrive on the scene and extinguish the fire

if your cars is on fire drive to the nearest flag marshal

cause at oran..last people you want to rely on are the fire truck at a super sprint

your better off having a wet towel and a cool six pack to watch your car burn then expect them to roll up on time

response at a race day is diffrent though :( thank fcuk

phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted

Has anyone got a full extinguishing system in their car? I don't know the name of it, but I'm sure you know what I mean. Pull the cord and fire be gone :(

I've contemplated one, but gather that they're prohibitively expensive.

PORTS Proficient

PORTS

Posted
Posted
I could imagine it'd be a royal pain to clean... but worth it to still have a car!

Caroline from CAZracing.com, had her cams approved extinguisher explode on the weekend while driving

and it completely stuffed the interior in her series III zed. Not only the fabric but the electronics aswell. :D Carry a fire blanket instead. :banana:

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

sorry but I can't see any 1kg, 2kg or 3kg making any difference to a decent size fire. there is a reason commercial ones (and the marshal's ones) start at 20kg. Its nice to have but I will be too busy getting out of the car when its on fire to focus on grabbing the 3x .9kg ones in my car.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)

Some low-life theiving mongrel stole our racecar trailer last night...ahh well good thing our Superlap car is road registered, has full interior, A/C, heaters, stereo etc and runs on BP98...Looks like we will be driving it to and from the event.

Saw all the trophy's today...very nice...

Edited by DiRTgarage
fatz Grand Master

fatz

Posted
Posted
our Superlap car is road registered, has full interior, A/C, heaters, stereo etc and runs on BP98...Looks like we will be driving it to and from the event.

lol im pretty sure every car ive raced had the above

i even keep the spare tyre in... just incase it needs a change mid track

bp98 was hard to find back in 2002 though so ill give ya that.. posh arse 98 octaine

get a 31 you superlap fools!

LotusHPE Apprentice

LotusHPE

Posted
Posted

BTW, our Lotus Elise HPE (Honda Powered Elise) is road registered and uses a STOCK JDM K20a Honda from a wreck with a 7psi Jackson Racing supercharger. The car has passed emissions tests like this and is fully engineered. We have now conevrted 12 Lotuses to Honda power and are allowed to run in ProdSports and Aust GT. Might even drive the car to the track on the road tyres. Is there a competeitors cruise that gets there in time??

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      I see... Any idea how much fab work is required? I note the Hygear megathread but its like 900 pages
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
×
×
  • Create New...