Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Be carfull with getting wide tyres on a front engine rwd. As I found good 285's - 335's are all designed for rear or mid engined cars that have a lot of weight over the rear wheels. In a front engine rwd you will never get the tyre working properly to generate any grip. Dunlop do make a good 285 but again its in a hard compound designed for Porchers :(

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Our car was 30K...but then broke the world record for labour charges for a GTR street engine build (no, unfortunately we didn't build this one) So yes you car may be cheaper than ours...hehe

Is that from the same people who brought you "2hrs labour/install for a plug-in ECU" ??

Dunlop do make a good 285 but again its in a hard compound designed for Porchers :D

Woops Dunlop do make a good 295 not 285 but it is for Porchers. There is a 285 in a Bridgestone RE55 but you will never fit it on a jap car as it is way too tall. Again it doesnt come in a soft enough compound for a front engine rwd :laugh:

thinking of running a book on what our best time will be.

bit like a guessing competition, contestants nominate a lap time to the nearest 10th of a second...$10 to enter...winner takes all. Nearest to the time wins or 1/2 the cash if tied.

so who's in?

Woops Dunlop do make a good 295 not 285 but it is for Porchers. There is a 285 in a Bridgestone RE55 but you will never fit it on a jap car as it is way too tall. Again it doesnt come in a soft enough compound for a front engine rwd :O

I'm running 265 wide Re55s on my GTR and a couple of the guys at QR are running 285s on theirs... ?

edit: Paul I havent used one on mine but really need one. Have watched the guys with one at QR in comparison to me and corner exit looks a whole lot more pleasant than without one!!! lol

Edited by wrxkilla
Paul I havent used one on mine but really need one. Have watched the guys with one at QR in comparison to me and corner exit looks a whole lot more pleasant than without one!!! lol

Our suspension mechanic looked at some details on it today...he's impressed with it. Im sure Luke will get the best out of it.

I think we are running 285's on the rear of the Honda S2000. Just got some new wheels so that they will fit in the standard guards....yeah baby.

can i use your old ones boz the hq rubber is to small 195/60/14 but the white walls look great on the gtr

How are the tyres coming along Jas?

I have some spare white walls if needed :D

I think they are only 12 inch in diameter as they may be from my old Datto 1200 days.

Edited by Bozman1
Ruzic ATTESSA controller going in car this weekend...anyone got one/used one?

Currently run one in my 33 GTR. I like it. Allows for more control over the power shift. Certainly makes my front diff work a litter harder (and hotter) as I tend to have the power transfer come on quicker than standard. For want of a better word, gives you more "feel" and more controlled power slides in tight corners.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...