Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok does anyone know how to differenciate between the RB gearboxes. EG RB20, RB25 R33 S1/S2 etc. Want to do conversion to R33 S1 turbo 5 speed in my DR and need to know what I'm looking for. Also is there any differences between turbo and non turbo R33 5 speeds??

Thanx, Vaughan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211246-rb-gbox-id/
Share on other sites

rb20/30 and 25 de are all the basically the same box , phisically smaller than the 25det

33 s1 and s2 are the same box , 34 is basically the same box . externally can be spotted by extra webbing on the case . internally the same with different ratios

any 25det box will be the best to get

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211246-rb-gbox-id/#findComment-3735418
Share on other sites

Yeh thanx MrMayhem, from what I've learned it's basically a case of slotting top 2 bellhousing bolts and a new g/box x-member and tailshaft right. I need the S1 cos it has a mechanical speedo output whereas the S2 is electronic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211246-rb-gbox-id/#findComment-3736028
Share on other sites

Quick semi-related question. I have a little badge on my gear stick dash surround that says "Super Quick X" with a serial number -- looks like some kind of gearbox part ID plate but I have no idea what it's for and if it's standard? Any ideas? Oh It's on an R33 GTSt S2 ('96).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211246-rb-gbox-id/#findComment-3736541
Share on other sites

all 33 det boxes are lecky

levinet sounds like a phone number to a brothel give it a call

take a look at the shifter either from under the car or takign the console out and shifter boot off might find its a short shifter

Haha, funyy. But anyway, it's not a short shifter, everything seems normal... I'll go take a picture...

Ok, here we go, sorry about the camera phone pic, my DSLR is too much of a hassle to take out for a quick snap:

shifter.jpg_400.jpg

Super Quick X

Pivot Systems

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211246-rb-gbox-id/#findComment-3736634
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...