Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant believe this thread is still goin... (ill continue it too)

It is proven that by raising the bonnet (as mentioned previously) it removes hot air from under the bonnet,

I had this simple modification prior to me getting my vented bonnet, and every single time the outside temps dropped, or it

was raining, my windscreen would fog up - from the outside (so it wasnt me nor the passangers foggin it up from the inside).

that was the only draw back to it!!!

p.s - otherwise i like the look

Peter

I cant believe this thread is still goin

lol neither can I, for the innocuous lil Q I asked :) I think to really find out about the temps etc you'd have to do a lot of controlled tests, maybe something like Autospeed do (from time to time, even some of their tests are a bit sus).

it doesn't work like that. air moves from high pressure to low pressure, it doesn't just head to the back of the car because that would be convenient.

if you raise the rear of the bonnet you are letting air in not out. have a good look there, almost all cars use bottom of the windscreen for the inlet for cabin air.

but wouldnt raising the bonnet direct air upwards and over the outlet creating a area of low pressure just where the outlet is?

also i would imagine there would be some pressure build up from air movement into the engine bay from the front with no outlet at the rear, at least enough to allow air to escape from an outlet at the rear.

also these things are illegal, just like a any vented bonnet that faces backwards as it is risk of oil or any other fluids coming out and over the windscreen.

ok....I'll happily agree that when the car is not moving, raised rear of the bonnet will help hot air out.

But if your car is running hot when it is not moving you have much bigger problems.

As soon as the car gets going raised rear does not let air out. did anyone read what cpt_impossible posted above?

But I really don't see the point in arguing with drifters about what looks good so I'll just stfu from here.

The spacers work as a general concept. Lower speeds for race cars are usually not pleasant for them heat wise so they like to be rid of the extra heat soak even more so than a road car.

You can simply remove the weather strip on an R32 GTR. Interestingly I noticed that my intake temps dropped by a few degrees by doing this at speed. Someone with an R32 can re-test this.

I've been doing this to cars for some time now and I think we can at least agree that low speed heat soak is reduced and thats a good thing as long as high speed cooling is not adversly effected.

ok....I'll happily agree that when the car is not moving, raised rear of the bonnet will help hot air out.

But if your car is running hot when it is not moving you have much bigger problems.

As soon as the car gets going raised rear does not let air out. did anyone read what cpt_impossible posted above?

But I really don't see the point in arguing with drifters about what looks good so I'll just stfu from here.

i think the bigger issue is, for the minor benefits u get, is it worth having just another, and very obvious thing officers can defect u for? personally i dont, and its not legal on the track anyway (well under CAMS at least, not sure about others) so its pretty useless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...