Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey!

I've been having this weird issue, thats on my nerves for quite some time.

When I coast on light throttle and suddenly apply more throttle. Like WOT, I get this clunk/kick in the drivetrain.

Or if I coast on light throttle and release the throttle pedal quickly. I also get this clunk/kick.

First I can feel it. Its like some kind of play. Probably the rear subframe/differential, cause I can sense it coming from there. Also the sound is from the rear.

If I raise the rear of the car. And try to move rear wheels by hand. I can feel there is small play until the diff(Nismo 1way) engages and spins another wheel.

Something like ~1cm play. I can rotate a wheel ~1cm forward and backward without engaging anything.

Anyone had similar problem ? What should I look for.

Sydneykid advised to look into final gear/pinion gear alignment.

Before I had a s14 3.7 final gear viscous lsd I didn't have this issue.

Car is A31.

Thanks in advance!

Yep sounds like play alright. Rear sub frame bushes rooted I guess. Drivers side front, check that bush. Big job, pain in the rear. Ive done two cars for other people, now my own has gone aswell. Oh well, the joys of owning cars

Also take a look at the centre bearing on the tailshaft, it can wear (moreso the actual rubber support that holds the bearing) & replicate the noise you're describing.

have you got excess backlash in the diff? Reach under and see if you can twist your tailshaft back and forth, there could be a big clearance between your crown and pinion wheel, which is giving you the noise on and off the throttle.

I have a similar problem on gear changes and the current suspect is the driveshaft appears to have some play in it, but I'm not quite sure yet...

have you got excess backlash in the diff? Reach under and see if you can twist your tailshaft back and forth, there could be a big clearance between your crown and pinion wheel, which is giving you the noise on and off the throttle.

Hey. It seems about right.

How do I fix it ?

  • 3 weeks later...

i got the same problem atm... im thinking of replacing all the driveshafts, thats the only thing i havent replaced. im taking my car into the shop tuesday so ill know for sure whats wrong.

I wasn't talking about cornering. I'm talking about straight line stuff.

2ways don't chutter on straight line.

Also. When in 4th/5th gear. If I start to play with the throttle. around 2/3k rpm. Like on/off operation. I can make my car to jerk so violently. Its crazy.

Need more input here, guys !

Thanks!

i got the same problem atm... im thinking of replacing all the driveshafts, thats the only thing i havent replaced. im taking my car into the shop tuesday so ill know for sure whats wrong.

Interested in this, I get a jerking at really low speed if I try to slip the clutch.

I have the clunk on release/apply of throttle, and on every gear change, the diff has been rebuilt but that doesn't seem to be the issue.

I *think* we found a little slack in the driveshaft, although it still needs to be confirmed.

  • 2 weeks later...
Reach under and see if you can twist your tailshaft back and forth, there could be a big clearance between your crown and pinion wheel, which is giving you the noise on and off the throttle.

I have this exact same problem. I've apparently got a quarter of a turn in the driveshaft before the rest wakes up and turns with it :P Makes me jerk on gear changes and any momentum change, like I'm learning to drive manual. YUCK.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
    • Motor and body mockup. Wheel fitment and ride height not set. Last pic shows front ride height after modifying the front uprights to make a 1.25" drop spindle.
×
×
  • Create New...