Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my 260RS dynoed and checked over today including compression test. PowerFC maps were checked and "tidied" up. Everything was good - drove it home then did some shopping etc.... Then went to a town just outside Adelaide for dinner, when we jumped in the car to go home it cranked over but nothing.

After checking nearly every connection and fuse I could then finally getting a lift home to grab my OEM computer out of the GTR and going back to connect that up to eliminate the powerFC, and removing the valley cover to check the wiring for the coil packs etc I came up with nothing. The fuel pump sounds like it's working, all lights on dash light up but no go.

Any ideas? I'm really worried about my car sitting there all night.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211295-car-stranded-wont-start/
Share on other sites

with the car on ACC (but dont try to start it) on the hand controller goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

do you see any sensors highlighted with black background?

why not get the car towed back home so its safe... ?

Thanks for the help Paul, but still don't have a hand controller as per a previous post regarding fuel/boost cut. Not having much luck with this car - and I'm not in the RAA (or RACV for other states) and doubt I'd get a tow where the car is. Thing is though - surely if it were a powerFC problem connecting up the R32 computer would fix it?

I know there's 20+ of these "car won't start thread" but not many have the fix so thought I'd add the fix for any that care!

Well after leaving the car there overnight and not getting much sleep went back this morning. Checked the fuel pump - working good. Checked all plugs again - all good. Then after almost giving up checked all the fuses and found the one for the engine (I know - derrr!!) blown. Should've checked these 1st really but at 10pm at night in pitch black it's a little difficult to see.

So anyway car is good...

I know there's 20+ of these "car won't start thread" but not many have the fix so thought I'd add the fix for any that care!

Well after leaving the car there overnight and not getting much sleep went back this morning. Checked the fuel pump - working good. Checked all plugs again - all good. Then after almost giving up checked all the fuses and found the one for the engine (I know - derrr!!) blown. Should've checked these 1st really but at 10pm at night in pitch black it's a little difficult to see.

So anyway car is good...

$Hit hey! I actually had that fuse blow on me whilst i was driving one day hey!! Just pulled around the corner and every thing just went stop!!!

Not sure if this is going to help, but once I was stranded at the petrol station on the hume highway going towards Casula, same thing couldn't start my car. So I just disconnected the air flow meter and put the ECU into LIMP mode and drove the car back.

Turns out my AFM was stuffed & also my injectors were clogged. Got a 2nd hand AFM off SAU and got my injectors ultrasoniced and yeah... all good now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, you are right. It seems easier and more reasonable to boost the engine. And as you said the blocks are very similar but the cylinder bores are different.
    • Sound logic, but in actuality way more illegal than just having the wrong pipe. Normally, doing something like that would be forgery. Meaning you may have certain documentation for vehicle parts, but the actual parts are different ones and you just assign them the numbers and badging from the documents. But nevermind that. Nonetheless, I AM curious if this pipe was ever made by any official manufacturer this way, because I honestly am not familiar with this pipe layout and shape. As I will be putting on the HKS Silent Hi Power once my exhaust gaskets arrive, as long as it sounds right I will just roll with this front pipe. I can always order the actual Mines part if I run into legal issues. It would be an unnecessary expense as there is lots of other problems I have on this car as of now.
    • So, weld a plate with the Mines logo laser cut into it, onto it. Instant Mines pipes, whether they were or weren't originally.
    • I don't know if the blocks are "the same". They will be very very similar. Obviously, either the bore or the stroke is going to be bigger on the 20. If the bore is bigger, then the 18 head is unlikely to fit properly. If the bore is the same, then you can almost certainly fit the CA18 head, but there migth be a few fun things you have to do to make water galleries (or other things) line up properly. Or... it could just be real easy. Is it worth the effort? Almost certainly not. You can make nearly as much power on a 2 valv ehead as you can on a 4 valve. There's not any "magic" in a 4 valve head.
    • Yes, me too!!!!  I need to find a something that has all the abbreviations for what these cars have LOL
×
×
  • Create New...