Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Brake Prob, Need Urgent Advise


JAK355
 Share

Recommended Posts

I just machined my r33 gtst rotors and now the front end is clucking under brakes.

I dont think i pushed the calliper pistons in at all or if much.

It only happens under braking, even under light braking.

I removed the ABS fuse and it still does it.

I need urgent help.

PLEASE

Jake

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 to retighten/double check. Also check that you haven't bent the wear indicators on the pads into a position where they foul on something or touch the disc too soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you had the pads re faced???

Ive never heard of that happening before outside of race teams...

I bet you one of the pads is out, cause what you have described is what happens when you get old pads on new discs...

or new pads on old warped and very well used discs...

It causes a vibration and sometimes a clicking noise...

Id be checking the pads are true...

Apart from that the only other thing that can make a click or clunk noise is a loose bolt/fitting/pad...

Check the pads, re-bleed the system make sure there i no air in the lines and tripple check all bolts etc...

Also visually inspect the discs and see where the wear marks are on th disc, that will be a good indication of if my hunch is right...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who machined your rotors....

Recently had same problem with xr6 rotors renouned for warping. Ensure your rotors have been machined properly and pay a little extra for new pads, save the headaches!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like the pads moving a little as well. I'll need to know exactly what sound it makes though. Does it clunk once? Click rapidly? Heavy or light application make a difference? Does it pull to either side through the wheel?

There is no evidence anywhere that using old pads on a freshly machined or brand new disc is any concern unless the pads are crumbling badly. In fact, the best bed in of a new rotor or surface is done with old pads. You can use new but it takes longer and can be unsuccessful. Did you do a bed in properly yet as well?

Also, I don't use shims in my brakes at all, and rarely ever get squealing.

Did you do any other work? Like replacing the caster rods? If they aren't very tight they will slide a little and clunk under brakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Found the problem,

Tried new pads, at first if appeared fine but only worked till the bed in material had worn off.

Another set of rotors and a machine when i was in Brisbane.

Lathe must have had slight "run out' or an incorrect dye was used, which caused the issue.

Thanks

for the advise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi and welcome. What are you planning to do to the car or will you keep it stock?
    • https://windowmotor.com.au/collections/02-07-v35-nissan-skyline?srsltid=AfmBOorAnTNYaD1tXzczAKZFqnDkZy23WgPXNfVscyeRKHhVNkiaC-WH https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-v35+stereo/k0  
    • Heaps of historical info on this, a quick Google gave dates back to 2012, all talk about identification markings, dimples, shapes of mounting surfaces, washers, that are concave or something to match the fasteners mounting surface, which ARP states that if the washer, if it uses a washer in its application, isn't the right way around, it can cause premature failure,  even if it was torqued up correctly with whatever lube is meant to be used There is even talk about getting the bolts Xrayed to check the structure, one was about some builder getting multiple sets of bolts, having them Xrayed, and picking from those results Nowadays identical "looking" fake parts, in identical looking fake packaging are everywhere, with all the markings and stuff, the only way you know they are not legit is Xray or when they fail I assume if you don't want fake parts, and don't have a Xray machine handy, is to get them directly from ARP in the USofA, aftermarket rod and head bolts aren't something to take for granted  Imagine building a big dollar build only to find you lunch it because of an inferior fake fixture let go 😫
    • Quick update team on the build Things done. Installed Diff Brace ( TMR Performance ) Removed Steering Rack and replaced bushings with GK Tech bushings Remove Manifold and replaced Rocker Cover Gaskets and the Spark Seal Tubes Installed 1000CC Bosch Fuel Injectors Installed R35 Spark Plugs ( Pre-gapped to 0.28"  Installed Z1 Coilpacks Removed Fuel Sender unit and modified OEM pump to fit the 350lph Fuel Pump Installed Fuel Sender unit back with a Fuel Return system ( TMR Performance Fuel Return V2 )  Setup Fuel Lines that were AN lines and used P-Clamps to secure them to body ( This is needed to make this road legal in NZ ) Setup Fuel regulator Setup Vacuum lines from Wastegate to boost controller ( 3 port mac valve ) Wired boost solenoid to the EVAP sensor ( Behind manifold of car ) - Polarity of cables doesn't matter Setup BOV and Fuel Regulator lines Installed both aftermarket Aero Fenders ( Sourced from Japan ) Received Impul 280km/h Speedo ( Sourced from Japan ) Installed Carbon shift console Drive down the road untuned without creating boost pressure to test for leaks ( Video attached ) Setup JRP Racing 14in1 Gauge with Boost pressure being monitored Buttoned car back up and Tow to tuning shop in the mighty DE ( Nissan Elgrand E51 ) - VQ35DE Tuning platform is EcuTek and am hoping to 550WHP ( Dyno day is 9th and 10th of October )  Had Shop weld in a new Exhaust piece to connect Downpipe > Motordyne Resonator and to add x2 02 Sensor bungs for an AFR Gauge that will hook into the JRP Multi-Gauge    20240927_181518.mp4 20240927_181618.mp4 20240928_192844.mp4
    • It's in the bloody domain name twice! Yes...the GTR boxen have, for some reason, been cheaper than the RWD boxen for a long time. 10 years ago the GTST box was available here for <AU$3k. 5 years ago the GTT box was available for ~AU$3300. Both retail through 3rd party. Now the GTT box is >4k locally and only available for less if you're willing to jump through some hoops. Apparently they can be ordered from Nissan dealers for $3-3.5k at trade pricing. A friend of mine has a new GTT box sitting on his showroom floor that I keep wanting to hit him up for but I'd somewhat rather he sold it to someone else at his asking price than to me for a mate's rates discount.
×
×
  • Create New...