Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Brake Prob, Need Urgent Advise


JAK355
 Share

Recommended Posts

I just machined my r33 gtst rotors and now the front end is clucking under brakes.

I dont think i pushed the calliper pistons in at all or if much.

It only happens under braking, even under light braking.

I removed the ABS fuse and it still does it.

I need urgent help.

PLEASE

Jake

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 to retighten/double check. Also check that you haven't bent the wear indicators on the pads into a position where they foul on something or touch the disc too soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you had the pads re faced???

Ive never heard of that happening before outside of race teams...

I bet you one of the pads is out, cause what you have described is what happens when you get old pads on new discs...

or new pads on old warped and very well used discs...

It causes a vibration and sometimes a clicking noise...

Id be checking the pads are true...

Apart from that the only other thing that can make a click or clunk noise is a loose bolt/fitting/pad...

Check the pads, re-bleed the system make sure there i no air in the lines and tripple check all bolts etc...

Also visually inspect the discs and see where the wear marks are on th disc, that will be a good indication of if my hunch is right...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who machined your rotors....

Recently had same problem with xr6 rotors renouned for warping. Ensure your rotors have been machined properly and pay a little extra for new pads, save the headaches!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like the pads moving a little as well. I'll need to know exactly what sound it makes though. Does it clunk once? Click rapidly? Heavy or light application make a difference? Does it pull to either side through the wheel?

There is no evidence anywhere that using old pads on a freshly machined or brand new disc is any concern unless the pads are crumbling badly. In fact, the best bed in of a new rotor or surface is done with old pads. You can use new but it takes longer and can be unsuccessful. Did you do a bed in properly yet as well?

Also, I don't use shims in my brakes at all, and rarely ever get squealing.

Did you do any other work? Like replacing the caster rods? If they aren't very tight they will slide a little and clunk under brakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Found the problem,

Tried new pads, at first if appeared fine but only worked till the bed in material had worn off.

Another set of rotors and a machine when i was in Brisbane.

Lathe must have had slight "run out' or an incorrect dye was used, which caused the issue.

Thanks

for the advise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've had a range of rear diff centres - open, viscous, helical, mechanical, welded, etc.   I can't go past a refreshed factory 32 gtr centre for consistent lock and street driving. The next step up for me would be the nismo 1.5 way , which likely suits you better as track sounds like the focus. Will chatter in carparks but its not the worst.   I have never tried a quaife rear diff, an option I've looked at before and might be one for you .....   Currently playing with an S15 centre at the moment and I hate it.  The transition from single wheel spin either side is just weird.
    • Honestly, I did think the PDM could do it and thought Haltech told me the pump didn’t like it. But after re-reading the emails and comments above, I clearly misunderstood lol.
    • I also run a CD009. I'm currently on a 4.08 and it's not great. I originally intended to run a 3.3 but had issues, more on that later. I'd stick to anywhere between a 3.3-3.7 as found in the 350z.  As for brands of ring and pinions, absolutely stay away from Speedtek. They are absolute garbage. See my build thread for more information on that. I went through two of there 3.3's and both had bad runout. They were paperweights and they have still yet to refund me.  I ended up putting in a Nissan 4.08, which was better then the original 4.36 but is far from ideal. I'm going to pop a 3.5 in this winter. I'd stick Nissan. I've also heard of a company "Neat Gearboxes" that makes them. Haven't tried them, but they can't be worst then Speedtek... 
    • You should Nistune the ECU, so you have freedom to use modern injectors instead of replacing with the same old shit. This is also required if you want to boost it up above ~200rwkW, where the stock injectors will be running out of capacity. Having said that, it is unlikely that the injectors need replacing just 'coz. If you imported it from Japan, the fuel should have been pretty good quality for the whole life of the car.
    • Just for a good chuckle. I received the new climate control yesterday and just before starting to remove my old one, I decided to try it again... it worked and has worked since haha. I'm keeping the new one on the shelf as I know it will repeat itself again at some point. 
×
×
  • Create New...