Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has any one, when removing the gauze section from their Air flow meter, still got it in good condition.. As i am having idle problems and i trashed mine getting them out.. let me know (PM) or email me Sil8tys email Will be greatly appreciated, do expect to pay for it or swap...

PLEASE SOME ONE HELP...... ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21145-r-33-air-flow-meter-gauze/
Share on other sites

RedlineGTR: yeah tried that, but it made no difference.. It stumbles a bit at idle.. Will fit the front gauze back in (before sensor) to try and make the air flow more uniform through the sensor.. Thanks any way.. :)

GTST4G: Have PM'd you back.. Greatly appreciated.. :)

Taking the gauze out shouldnt make any difference to your cars peformance other than getting that tiny bit extra out of it due to there being less of a restriction. Id try cleaning them first with carby cleaner. Take them out, give them a real good soaking spray once or twice or even 3 times! it's amazing how much oil and crap still comes off them after a 3rd spray. You can see this discoloured cleaner dripping out. Dont let the cleaner liquid sit in the point where the a/f element mount joins the outer casing. It should be sealed anyway but just incase.) then reset your ecu again.

The gauze is there for catching foreign material entering the meter. It's that thin that it wouldn't have any flow straightening properties at all. I would have thought it would create a (uniform) turbulence instead of straightening the flow.

It wouldn't really matter taking them out and loosing the protection properties of gauze because one would think that if you could afford to take your car to a point where you would start blowing turbos, then one would be able to afford a new airflow meter aswell as a new turbo setup and anything else that was damaged in the process :D

Cheers

Richy

RichyR32GTR: tried all that, have spoken to a few reputable people/workshops about this.. Tried resetting Computer, no go...... Got told to try fitting the gauze in after the filter to see if it MAY fix my problem, as it is possible that different filter designs alter the way air flows into the A/F meter (mine is the APEXi Power Intake filter) As it never did this prior to removing the gauze out of the A/F meter.. I did notice a fair increase in boos though.. Will keep you posted to how it goes....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that green thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
×
×
  • Create New...