Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Went and got am el cheapo timing light to check the base timing on my series 1 r33 gtst, I have no timing marks whatsoever on the engine side there there is a mark on my balancer but none on the engine anywhere WTF!

Is there another way to check the timing?

any plug ins like greddy info meter?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/
Share on other sites

no, your base timing must be checked with a timing light. info meters, consult etc assume that your base timing is set correctly.

there is a timing mark on the front of the engine, to the right of centre. it's basically just a notch, and you line that notch up with the marks on the pulley (which you can see once the timing light is correctly hooked up).

see pic (arrow pointing towards timing notch, mine is painted white from the factory)

post-1980-1206273359_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3740625
Share on other sites

the timing marks should be on the rear lip of the balancer, 5marks from memory 0 is orange the rest are white.

we had an issue with our balancer and had to machine that rear lip which meant we need to put new marks on it, was a bit of a pain (and a balancer off job)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3740868
Share on other sites

sorry to but in on this topic but with my 34gtt there is a white wire at the back of the motor that ive been told 2 use but will the timing light work straight up with the inductive pickup of it or do i have 2 get another peice for it 2 work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3741870
Share on other sites

sorry to but in on this topic but with my 34gtt there is a white wire at the back of the motor that ive been told 2 use but will the timing light work straight up with the inductive pickup of it or do i have 2 get another peice for it 2 work

you can use the loop but some timing guns have the problem of reading double, i have a super cheap 50 buck jobbie and it reads doulble the actual setting so the gun lights up at 30 deg but its actually at 15 deg

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3741947
Share on other sites

yeah you just use the loop at the back of the motor.

but I've had touble in the past with some cheaper timing lights they read twice as high as the actual number, ie it reads 30o when it is only 15o

you beat me to it :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3741951
Share on other sites

my timing gun does double blinks, so the marks seem to jump all over the place. one way around it is to buy a short spark plug lead from an auto store, and put it on the #1 spark plug and plug the other end into your coil pack, you can then put the timing light around the actual plug lead and then it works fine.

i then found out that if i put the pickup loop only half around the white wire on the ignition pack, that it works properly. so now I just do that :whistling:

have not heard of it reading double the actual timing, that sounds very strange to me. the timing light has no concept of timing, it simply strobes when the spark fires on #1 cylinder. so i can't think of a reason why it would fire at 30 deg instead of 15deg, unless you forgot to unplug your TPS (in which case the timing would be jumping around anyway, because the ECU uses timing to control the idle speed).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3742162
Share on other sites

hey sorry to hijack this thread(it had info which i needed and didnt want to waste opening up another thread)

i just had my timing checked at a local garage.... the notch on the crank case lines up with the 2nd white mark on the balancer/pulley. Basically i see th yellow(0degree) and 2 other white lines match up to the crank notch... Does that mean my timing is only at 10degrees? i thought the BT was 15?

plz help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3757637
Share on other sites

haha yeh i was a bit.

alright i just went to see my tuner and the timing was ALL over the place.....?? he turned the AC on and then the timing settled to 15. said to me the CAS is probably faulty(hitachi unit).

is there a way to test the CAS. would it generate a fault code which would show up on a diagnostic?

are there any dangers to having a faulty CAS?

(Sorry to hijack thread!!!!) :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3758245
Share on other sites

i seen a car with a fauly CAS once, it backfired out the exaust so loud it scared the crap outta me 100 meters away, and then it blew the exaust mufflers up.

Wasnt funny when it scared me, but it was funny when it came past and the exaust was dragging on the ground.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3758264
Share on other sites

alright i just went to see my tuner and the timing was ALL over the place.....?? he turned the AC on and then the timing settled to 15. said to me the CAS is probably faulty(hitachi unit).

He probably didn't unplug the plug on the throttle position sensor. As I have said earlier in the thread, the ECU uses timing to control the idle speed. So if you leave the TPS plugged in your timing WILL be all over the place. This is NORMAL.

If your TPS is unplugged and the timing is still everywhere, and it's DEFINITELY not your timing light, then you have a problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3759586
Share on other sites

i have been having base timing issues and i am pretty sure my timing light was indicating double, while the car would run fine with 15deg indicated (and 7.5deg real i would imagine) its pulls heaps harder on 30deg indicated and 15deg actual. bloody cheap $50 timing lights from supercheap, or rather actually shitty timing system from nissan....

i like the spark plug lead idea from coilpack to actual plug...i mean after all thats what they are actually meant to read...high voltage signal...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3763854
Share on other sites

After doing some reading, the only time a timing light reads double is when you have a "delay" timing light and you are using it on an engine with waste spark. I think the way those work, is that you set the timing on the timing gun and then rotate your distributor/crank angle sensor until the 0 mark on the pulley lines up with the notch.

With a waste spark system, the spark plug is firing at TDC but also at BDC (minus however many degrees you have) but since there are 2 sparks per cycle, the timing light thinks your RPM is twice as high so its calculation for the delay is wrong.

With a simple timing light that just triggers when it gets a pulse and has no delay/timing setting on it, you should be fine. I don't believe the stock R33 ECU uses waste spark, but an aftermarket system might.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3764855
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
×
×
  • Create New...