Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Went and got am el cheapo timing light to check the base timing on my series 1 r33 gtst, I have no timing marks whatsoever on the engine side there there is a mark on my balancer but none on the engine anywhere WTF!

Is there another way to check the timing?

any plug ins like greddy info meter?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/
Share on other sites

no, your base timing must be checked with a timing light. info meters, consult etc assume that your base timing is set correctly.

there is a timing mark on the front of the engine, to the right of centre. it's basically just a notch, and you line that notch up with the marks on the pulley (which you can see once the timing light is correctly hooked up).

see pic (arrow pointing towards timing notch, mine is painted white from the factory)

post-1980-1206273359_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3740625
Share on other sites

the timing marks should be on the rear lip of the balancer, 5marks from memory 0 is orange the rest are white.

we had an issue with our balancer and had to machine that rear lip which meant we need to put new marks on it, was a bit of a pain (and a balancer off job)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3740868
Share on other sites

sorry to but in on this topic but with my 34gtt there is a white wire at the back of the motor that ive been told 2 use but will the timing light work straight up with the inductive pickup of it or do i have 2 get another peice for it 2 work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3741870
Share on other sites

sorry to but in on this topic but with my 34gtt there is a white wire at the back of the motor that ive been told 2 use but will the timing light work straight up with the inductive pickup of it or do i have 2 get another peice for it 2 work

you can use the loop but some timing guns have the problem of reading double, i have a super cheap 50 buck jobbie and it reads doulble the actual setting so the gun lights up at 30 deg but its actually at 15 deg

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3741947
Share on other sites

yeah you just use the loop at the back of the motor.

but I've had touble in the past with some cheaper timing lights they read twice as high as the actual number, ie it reads 30o when it is only 15o

you beat me to it :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3741951
Share on other sites

my timing gun does double blinks, so the marks seem to jump all over the place. one way around it is to buy a short spark plug lead from an auto store, and put it on the #1 spark plug and plug the other end into your coil pack, you can then put the timing light around the actual plug lead and then it works fine.

i then found out that if i put the pickup loop only half around the white wire on the ignition pack, that it works properly. so now I just do that :whistling:

have not heard of it reading double the actual timing, that sounds very strange to me. the timing light has no concept of timing, it simply strobes when the spark fires on #1 cylinder. so i can't think of a reason why it would fire at 30 deg instead of 15deg, unless you forgot to unplug your TPS (in which case the timing would be jumping around anyway, because the ECU uses timing to control the idle speed).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3742162
Share on other sites

hey sorry to hijack this thread(it had info which i needed and didnt want to waste opening up another thread)

i just had my timing checked at a local garage.... the notch on the crank case lines up with the 2nd white mark on the balancer/pulley. Basically i see th yellow(0degree) and 2 other white lines match up to the crank notch... Does that mean my timing is only at 10degrees? i thought the BT was 15?

plz help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3757637
Share on other sites

haha yeh i was a bit.

alright i just went to see my tuner and the timing was ALL over the place.....?? he turned the AC on and then the timing settled to 15. said to me the CAS is probably faulty(hitachi unit).

is there a way to test the CAS. would it generate a fault code which would show up on a diagnostic?

are there any dangers to having a faulty CAS?

(Sorry to hijack thread!!!!) :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3758245
Share on other sites

i seen a car with a fauly CAS once, it backfired out the exaust so loud it scared the crap outta me 100 meters away, and then it blew the exaust mufflers up.

Wasnt funny when it scared me, but it was funny when it came past and the exaust was dragging on the ground.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3758264
Share on other sites

alright i just went to see my tuner and the timing was ALL over the place.....?? he turned the AC on and then the timing settled to 15. said to me the CAS is probably faulty(hitachi unit).

He probably didn't unplug the plug on the throttle position sensor. As I have said earlier in the thread, the ECU uses timing to control the idle speed. So if you leave the TPS plugged in your timing WILL be all over the place. This is NORMAL.

If your TPS is unplugged and the timing is still everywhere, and it's DEFINITELY not your timing light, then you have a problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3759586
Share on other sites

i have been having base timing issues and i am pretty sure my timing light was indicating double, while the car would run fine with 15deg indicated (and 7.5deg real i would imagine) its pulls heaps harder on 30deg indicated and 15deg actual. bloody cheap $50 timing lights from supercheap, or rather actually shitty timing system from nissan....

i like the spark plug lead idea from coilpack to actual plug...i mean after all thats what they are actually meant to read...high voltage signal...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3763854
Share on other sites

After doing some reading, the only time a timing light reads double is when you have a "delay" timing light and you are using it on an engine with waste spark. I think the way those work, is that you set the timing on the timing gun and then rotate your distributor/crank angle sensor until the 0 mark on the pulley lines up with the notch.

With a waste spark system, the spark plug is firing at TDC but also at BDC (minus however many degrees you have) but since there are 2 sparks per cycle, the timing light thinks your RPM is twice as high so its calculation for the delay is wrong.

With a simple timing light that just triggers when it gets a pulse and has no delay/timing setting on it, you should be fine. I don't believe the stock R33 ECU uses waste spark, but an aftermarket system might.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211594-timing-marks/#findComment-3764855
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
×
×
  • Create New...