Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a rather large sound system...

1500w Sub

1500w amp

and some 450w amp for my speakers.. Im blowing inline fuses at 60A, Im concidering going higher to stop this from blowing, is this advisable?

I cant find any info on what damage can be done if I do go higher. I assume amp fuses start blowing.

I know im blowing them because I pushing the sound to high.. Perhaps I need bigger wires? I get to about 30 with no distortion and then sub stops, fuse gone.

What can I do to push it higher?

Someone lend a hand, cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/
Share on other sites

I agree with the above post - the fuses are there to protect the wiring, and also amps under short circuit conditions.

Provided you have no fault like a short circuit causing the fuse to blow (which is unlikely since your fuse blows when you wind the wick up), then check that the cabling can handle additional current and put bigger fuses in, or separate your power feeds and individually fuse them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3746450
Share on other sites

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/systemdesignassistant.swf

Make sure u enter wrms figures not max watts. Basically add all the fuses on your amps, thats the amperage you need for the inline fuse next to the battery.

Edited by mark_sudakov
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3754059
Share on other sites

Ive got the inline fuse, then ive got a split section where two single lines come off the main line, so each amp gets big power. This splitter has two 60A fuses and I blew one of them. I guess that the line to the amps is not big enough?

And Jaycar did not have a 70A fuse :banana:

Oh and also before that I actually melted the splitter and blew the fuses (but thats because the sub was hitting one and causing it to jump in and out)

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3754914
Share on other sites

What guage power cable do you have running from the Battery to the Distrobution Block. And from that, what guage power cable do you have going to each amp? From what i gather you have a distrobution block with 2 fuses in it yeah? but what fuse do you have between the distro block and the battery? And also as Mark said, use RMS, not Peak Power, because peak doesnt mean much these days, as alot of brands use it as a marketing tool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3765776
Share on other sites

Ive got 60a sitting from the battery and another two 60a between the amp distro..

I believe its the cabling going to the amps, and I also think ive blown the front splits as now sometimes i hear them clicking.. but not distorting from memory i think its called clipping?

Replace front speakers I think... :P Alpines too! Perhaps turn gain down.

The installers did it all this way.. I dont know wtf to do..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3767694
Share on other sites

having fuses blow does not relate to the cables being too small, although the fuse size should relate to the cable gauge so that the fuse blows before you melt a cable (that's what fuses are for - it's very frustrating when expensive cable sacrifices itself to save a $1 fuse:( )

If the tweeters aren't distorting when listening normally, then they're not broken. If they're clicking when the music is loud then they or the amp may be clipping, and if they click for long they'll soon be dead. Tweeters tend to zot themselves quite quickly when mistreated.

If the amps are clipping then you'll be sending more power to the tweeters via compression than they'll be able to handle - turn the volume down.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3770090
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...