Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My R34 came shipped from Japan without the factory boost gauge working. Everything else in the car works fine. I'm assuming the previous Jap owner had an after-market gauge and probably pulled it out (along with any wires) before selling.

My question is: What should I be looking for under the bonnet? I'm thinking that the original wire that goes to the boost gauge was either disconnected or removed. Would this be right? If so, can someone tell me where this wire can be found in the bonnet of an R34?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211918-factory-boost-gauge-question/
Share on other sites

like above. little box with 2 wires in and a boost line from the rear of the plenum.

I'm still not exactly sure if I'm looking at the map sensor so I have taken a photo of what I think it is (red arrow)

r34dr1.jpg

Is that the map sensor? If so, does it look right? Also there is a plug close to there (yellow arrow), what should be plugged into that?

Also, does anyone have a photo or know of a link with pics that describe what each visible component is under the bonnet of the R34 GTT? Similar to what I have done with the above photo but one that covers most, if not all parts under the bonnet.

I would also like to know what can be plugged in where the yellow arrow is.. Ive never had anything there either.

As far as stock boost gauge goes the guys above are correct.. :woot:

Yeah I know that an aftermarket gauge would be much more accurate than the standard one, but I want to keep my car looking as stock as possible which is why I really want to try and get the standard gauge working.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...