Jump to content
SAU Community

Is There A Difference Between The Rb25de Abd The Rb25det Exhaust?

Skyline_Lover
 Share

Recommended Posts

Skyline_Lover Contributor

Skyline_Lover

Posted
Posted

I have a 1998 R34 RB25DE and was wondering if a exhaust made for a RB25DET would work on my car.....thanx lots...and if anyone knows of an exhaust for my car send me a link...thanx

SkyKC Rising Star

SkyKC

Posted
Posted
I have a 1998 R34 RB25DE and was wondering if a exhaust made for a RB25DET would work on my car.....thanx lots...and if anyone knows of an exhaust for my car send me a link...thanx

One thing I know for sure is, even though its gona fit to your NA, you will loose the volumetric vacuum/scavenging efficiency. ift is a 3inch pipe then its too big, maximum you should go is 2.5" have a look at the following posts...

Post 1

Post 2

hope this helps.....

Skyline_Lover Contributor

Skyline_Lover

Posted
  • Author
Posted

also if i find a RB25DET Cat back and its a 99 will it work? i have a 98...i thought the only difference was the body kit...but im not sure...

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted
2.5" or 2.75" MAX i would upgrade for exhaust..

not 3" too big!

unless you have a fully high flowing powerful NA that pushes over 150rwkw hehe

even then it'd have to be a high revving motor.

the commodore/ford V8s only run 2.5"

Skyline_Lover Contributor

Skyline_Lover

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3" is never too big....................

in the end get what you what to put on your car and not what everyone else tells you too.

yeah...ur right...thanx man

R34TRK Collaborator

R34TRK

Posted
Posted
3" is never too big....................

in the end get what you what to put on your car and not what everyone else tells you too.

cara you have a 3 inch on yours.. how loud is it exactly? do you feel like you loose way to much power?

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

but of course all that noise and no power gain... is it worth it...., no..

People here are giving advice on if a 3" is performance wise an upgrade, and the answer is no, many threads about it too...

but here if you just want a loud car ram a screwdriver through your muffler...

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

you're all forgetting that a power figure (although the standard) is just a mere maximal power figure.

100kw @ 4000rpm will be a better drive than 117kw @ 5000rpm. 17kw increase at 1000rpm later, i know i'd take the driveability over the peak power increase any day.

what about the other attributes, rpm? area under the curve? torque? etc. all the fact sheets for new cars provide a power figure in reference to which rpm it was measured at. 1000kw @ 20000rpm vs. 100kw @ 4000rpm plus the torque figure, you can do the maths.

if you look at all the drag racing guys - they don't care about power figures anymore. MPH at which they cross the traps is what they are interested in. there's so much discrepancy in dynos now days that they don't care if you have 200kw or 400kw.

and since i like to have the final word on things, i'd like for the rest of this thread to remain on topic. if you wish to continue this 3" kilowatt vs. response/torque debate, bring it up in one of the other threads. actually i'd rather no one did, because it'll be a repetition of what's been going back and forth already.

everyone has their preference. if you want a kilowatt number to go off and tell others go ahead, if you want response then that is also fine, if you want to back up those figures with some drag/track/circuit times even better. that way we can at least draw some relationships between power vs. track time.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...