Changing Wheel Studs On A R33 4 Door

[nm8u]

hay guys i am changing my front wheel studs to suit some new rims i bougt i have a r33 series 2 4 door. is it hard to do any tutorials and pics that can help me. cheers

[adam-__-]

If changing wheel studs on a vt commodore is anything similar to changing them on a r33, it's not all that difficult.

All you have to do would be, take off wheels, calipers, rotors and then you should be able to just 'knock' the studs out and replace with the new ones, reverse steps to get it back to normal. If the commodore and skyline are the same (for some reason I don't think they are) it should be a piece of cake.

[QWK32]

yeah just as adam has said. and dont be scared to give the hammer a real good swing, just make sure you hit the stud, lol.

edit: it is also a really good idea to put a wheel nut back on the end of the thred befre hitting it with a hammer. it stops you from rounding the end of the stud over.

Edited March 25, 2008 by QWK32

[nm8u]

thanks guys i was wondering cause they are longer wheel studs then the stock ones, i think the stock ones are around 45 mm the new ones i have are arond 75mm will they be hard to get them in the small gap at the back or is the gap at the back big.

cheers

[adam-__-]

Yeah, the 'gap' you're talking about could be a problem. When changing studs on the commodore, we had to turn the wheel to get the most space to 'knock' the studs in from behind. It could be more of a problem installing the longer studs though. Not sure what you could do apart from taking everything out.

[nm8u]

Hay guys,

i changed my wheel studs today.

i didnt realise that it would be so easy. i went to a few shops and they wanted about 60 dollars a stud to change over for me so basically i thought that was a jok so i will write step by step how to do it it took me about 20 mins each wheel to change them all up about a hour.

i also ran into a problem when changing them. i dropped my caliper which snapped a brake line. doh.

lucky for me the shops were close so could get another one made which was really good. that took about 2 hours in driving round but anyways.

Real easy to do.

step 1

Take the rim off

step 2

Undo the caliper. Two bolts at the back of it are all it takes to come off they are about a 17 mm i think.

step 3

There is a small part of steel which contects the brake line to the caliper. Thats what i broke and had to have changed. Remove it so you dont brake it. Its pritty easy to brake so be careful. Remove it it is a 10 mm screw on both ends of it. Brake fluid comes out but dont worry bout that not much comes out.

step 4

Take the caliper off the disc now. real easy it just slides off.

step 5

Get the disc off. that is also real easy. there are two holes on the disc that you can screw the appropiate bolt into keep going and it just falls off.

step 6

Now to the fun part with the disc off you can see the studs now i got new ones so i just smashed these original ones out. There is a place where you rotate them to hit out. Just hit the one that has the grove for it to come out.

step 7

Once they are all out. put the new ones in they will be lose dont worry bout that cause they pull themself into position when you tighten them.

step 8

Now put the disc over the studs that are lose and put the brake caliper back 0n and tighten everything up again. the studs will still be lose. now that everything is were it should be, put the new nuts you get with the studs on and start tightening them. when you tighten them they pull themselves into position and make there own groves in the hub. they really cut into it if you like. after they are tight take them off. you may need some one to stand on the brake while doing this so they dont move. by the way you might want to top up your brake fluid or bleed the brakes if you want to i did.cause of when you took the pipe off.

step 9

Now the studs are all tight put your wheel on, now what happens is you feel like you are stripping the bolt but your not. if you didnt get them tight enough they will still pull into position when puting the rims on so keep tighting them till they stop. thats it like i said it took 20 mins a side part from braking one of those lines i was talking bout real easy i saved a heap of cash dont be scared of doing it yourself.

Cheers guys i hope this can help others. later

[adam-__-]

Did you try to open up the brake lines to get the air in or was it by accident? There shouldn't be any need to take the calipers off the brake lines. Just un-hook it from the strut 'holder thing'.

Anyway, good write up. Maybe make a new thread in the tutorial/DIY section and copy, paste that post for others to see!

Cheers

[75coupe]

Studs with wheel nuts together, where did you get yours, I got longer studs at like $6 each no nut.. ordered from repco, high tensile studs... I did need to cut them down a little though, but with wheel nut, what brand?

[adam-__-]

With wheel nuts, try to spend money on some quality ones. Those cheap ones from tempetyres, the tyre factory, etc, all break or round off after a few times after taking them off and putting them back on.

Go for Rays Engineering or Work nuts. A nice little way to spend $200.

[nm8u]

hay guys,

the wheel studs i have i got from auto one. they are high tensile steel really good quality they costed $13 a stud they came with nuts on them because they so long it was not a closed in nut which was really good. i got a total of 10 studs so i got them for 10 bucks each.

im not sure what brand they are.

hay dude i cant see why u would need to cut the stud mine were 75mm and fitted with ease. did u change the back ones.

i also took the brake caliper off so i wouldnt brake it you dont have to but i did cause it was a big hassel to get the hose i broke.

Edited March 27, 2008 by nm8u