Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the titles says I am thinking of buying a new daily driver that would also do monthly sprints at qld raceway\hopefully lakeside. The two cars I am tossing up between is a R32 GTS-T and a mid 90's MX5.

With 10k spent on either cars engine\brakes\suspension which car would "generally" be quicker around a track?

I have done a little research on the MX5 and on paper its specs seem pretty good (never driven one). 950kg, 50\50 weight distribution, double wishbone suspension with the only downfall being its lack of power. Although apparently the 1.8L models can handle a GT25 turbo and make up to 200 - 250rwhp on the standard engine. Coupled with its lightweight and a decent brake setup would a R32 GTS-T with 10k of mods stand a chance?

If you spend your 10k wisely i would say the MX5 would be quicker at most tracks. BD4s in Sydney use to have a well sorted MX5 that has since been through several owners (in fact is up for sale again) but still punches hard.

http://www.my105.com/95236

I think he is dreaming re the askign price as i know what it sold for when BD4s off loaded it to play with their R34

plenty of mx5s which are already prepped for racing, the cheapest way to buy a race car is for someone else to waste the money building it. there atre 16 of them on my105 atm

they were running 1.17s at Oran Park last meeting. good luck getting a gtst to that speed for 10k purchase + 10k mods. http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....10/2007.ORGP.Q6

My money is on the MX5 as there are plenty around with good buts which 10k could make very quick.

That said, my R32 GTSt has good suspension and brakes...with a good turbo setup, ecu, intercooler etc that all up is worth 10k. You need to spend about 20k to get a GTSt from STD to where my car is today.

At Winton and Sandown my car was quicker then a Exige on semi slicks driven by Dean Evans. I wonder was what done to the Exige that topped the times in Duncan's post?

Either way i was at leat 2 seconds quicker then the Exige of Dean Evans, and Dean Evans is a far better driver then me :action-smiley-069:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
    • Sounds like it is rotational in the driveline. CV? Tailshaft CB? Also.....didn't you just pay to have that bit painted and put on the car?
    • Yeah, when I dialled my idle down, given how much time I spent idling at the lights in traffic on my daily commute, the effect on overall fuel consumption was absolutely noticeable.
×
×
  • Create New...