Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fitting 17 x 9inch mags on the Stagea with ET45 means you are very close to the rear strut and with a little wheel and axel deflection it will scrape... this is also depending on you rear negative camber... the more Negative you go the closer the wheel will be to the strut.

I had to run a 5mm spacer to stop this... I hate spacers so I did this small mod to offset the rear suspension enough to clear the rim.

post-43655-1206512945_thumb.jpg

I bought large washers that fitted over the suspension point to space it away from the wheel. 21mm inside washers 3.5mm thick.

post-43655-1206512906_thumb.jpg

I turned up 2 spigots to replace the original washer and bolt... also help share the strut load. You will need a longer bolt.

post-43655-1206514691_thumb.jpg

Simple to do... slide off the strut, place the spacers, fix on the strut and insert the spigot and bolt together.

Another thing I found to look out for. The previous owner put one of the struts on different to the other side... normaly this would not make any difference. But if the strut is fitted with the end of the coil face you as you look under the guard... you get a fraction more clearance than the other way.

post-43655-1206512924_thumb.jpg

I am running 235x45x17 tyres. The fronts are 8inch thus the need to run 235's on the rear on a 4x4 Stagea keeping the tyre dia the same front to rear.

Antony

Edited by ant0ny
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212103-rear-wheel-suspension-clearance-mod/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...