Mods to a GTST

[king_kw13]

95GTST what is your opinion about FMICs? Why cant u go past it? Why get the SAFCII, FMIC and fuel pump when u dun even got a boost controller, bleed valve?

[Milo]

Damn thats a lot of info. Thanks for all the suggestions. Maybe stereo/interior would be a good starting point. Haha.

[king_kw13]

hehe ask a simple question get a complicated answer. what r u gonna do in terms of interior wise? carbon fibre dash??

[Sydneykid]

Hi Guys, the first thing we always recommend to do is a 3 to 3.5" turbo back exhaust with a split dump and a hi flow cat, worth 12 to 15 rwkw every time over a standard exhaust.

Second is something to adjust the boost and hold it steady at 10 psi (that's 0.7 bar for the metrics). We use this system a lot and for $125 its the best non electric boost control we have used. http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html

Worth 15 to 20 rwkw every time.

Third, we recommend either a panel filter in the standard box or a POD in a box with AAI (ambient air feed). Never a POD on its own, sucks in hot air. Done right is worth 4 to 6 rwkw.

A front mount intercooler is next on the list, we have found the standard R32/33 GTR intercooler to be very cost effective (will handle up to 300 rwkw). The lower restriction and better cooling is worth 10 to 15 rwkw.

You will need an upgrade in fuel pump at this stage as well, we find R32/33 GTR fuel pumps at 190 litres per hour to be effective at this power level with a bit of head room to spare.

Now it's tuning time, as far as I am concerned a Power FC is the best way to go, the price is currently $1,000. Makes an SAFC look expensive at $700 doesn't it. Properly tuned fuel and ignition maps with a Power FC is worth an additional 15 to 20 rwkw.

How does that add up.........

182 kw - losses of 52 kw = 130 rwkw

+ 15 + 20 + 6 + 15 + 20 = 206 rwkw

That's about right, if the RB25DET is in good condition and the tuner knows his stuff.

What to do after that, well ball bearing hi flow the standard turbo is a good choice, worth around 25 to 30 rwkw at 1.1 bar (16 psi for the imperials).

Hope that helps.

[rev210]

Originally posted by Soulja

thanks rev210 i try but it also depends of which way u look at it

Air-Filter is always a cheap mod

Exhuast It always help, no point running a mod car on stock one :uh-huh:  

Aftermarket Chip = good idea

Aftermark intercooler (i like the look of a front one )

By the way rev210 might  be getting myself a R_34 GTS-T 2 go wit the vette

Air filter is a cheap mod, the air-pod is not a good one without a cold air box made for it, even then it's no better than the stock airbox with a panel element. Why waste the money and time on it?

Exhaust was the one you got right.

Aftermarket 'chip' , as mentioned the R33 ecu doesn't have a readily available one. The jap pre-chipped ecu's are nothing short of a waste of money for the performance they offer.

The intercooler is another large amount of money to outlay, is easy to incorrectly size and may make the car accelerate slower than stock. If using the stock turbo at reasonable boost levels the mod is unnecessary to achieve some good results.

[gtstii]

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Now it's tuning time, as far as I am concerned a Power FC is the best way to go, the price is currently $1,000.  Makes an SAFC look expensive at $700 doesn't it.   Properly tuned fuel and ignition maps with a Power FC is worth an additional 15 to 20 rwkw.

Hey sydneykid,

you said a power fc will give you 15-20rwkw and is better than an safcII, but how much would the SAFC give you in comparisoon.

ie. how much more do you get from a pfc over an safc with a car with usual zorst, intake etc mods and around 0.75bar?

thanks

[Bleach1]

why are there such varying opinions to do with Pods especially and FMICs?

Wouldnt a quality pod with the correct partitioning and a good cool air source be less restricitive than the standard air box even with a K & N insert?

WIth Front mount intercoolers, if a car is running higher than standard Boost, say 10psi wouldnt the cooler intake temperatures and the added boost make any potential lag created because of the longer distance that needs to be flowed be very limited? Basically do the advantages outweigh the flaws if it is all done right?

[boostimports]

exhuast FIRST

pod

bov (if u wanna give it the rice effect)

ecu if u feelin rich

fmic

boost controller

[Sydneykid]

Hi gtstii, the first problem with SAFC's is they have a restricted range of manipulating the signal from the AFM. With the amount of mods I specified, some cars will move outside the SAFC's ability to correct the signals. I don't know why, some cars do, some cars don't.

Secondly to get the best response and power you simply have to adjust the ignition timing maps. An SAFC only does fuel, so you would need to buy an ITC, which is another $700.

Plus you still have overboost protection in the standard ECU and speed limiting (SAFC and ITC doesn't fix these) So you need to buy an overboost defeater and a speed limit defeater, bingo another $500 gone. Now you have spent twice as much as a Power FC and you still have limits as to the amount you can move the igntion timing and air fuel ratios and numerous others.

To directly answer your question, it has been my experience that about 15 rwkw of the gains come from air fuel ratio optimisation and 5 rwkw from ignition. But that is only the maximum number at one RPM point. The fact is we get 20 to 30 rwkw increases in mid range and off boost performance from optimum ignition timng.

Hi Bleach1, I am not sure I understand your question, but I'll have a go...............

Lag 1, as in how long it takes for the turbo to spool up after you put your foot down at all rpm points

Lag 2, as in what RPM the turbo builds boost

Response, as in how long it takes for the engine to respond to throttle inputs (either on or off)

Power, as in the single maximum power output of the engine at one RPM point

Bigger intercooler, larger diameter pipework, longer length of pipework, all can really slow down the response and increase the lags (both 1 and 2). In many circumtances this can easily offset any gains made in max power because of lower restriction and cooler inlet air temperature. Particularly in road driving and circuit work, drag racing would be a little different of course. Although even there, response and low lag are important. Ask Rev210, he will tell you.

Not all POD's are created equal, I have seen one example loose 4 rwkw over the standard filter. It was a cheap HKS copy, mounted too close to the inner guard with too small a cold air feed and no partition. A decent panel filter in the standard airbox with the standard cold air feed would have easily given 8 rwkw more.

A good quality POD, in a sealed enclosure with sufficient ambient air feed might make 3 or 4 more rwkw. But I reckon only 2 out 10 POD installations I see are really up to scratch.

Hope that helps

From my experience the rule is, "there is no rule".

[drifta]

look Milo pm me and see my car air pod,cold air box&intake ,fmic ,bleedvalue,full zorst,over269hp

[king_kw13]

SydneyKid - Great information

- So after your explanation about the FMIC, are you suggesting that getting a FMIC may not be the best option for road driving as lag and response times are increased?

OR are you saying that getting FMIC and then correctly tuning it will provide gains?

[Ronin 09]

I am going down the route of:

*3.5" turbo back exhaust (done)

*pod with partition and low feed (done)

*EBC (coming)

*FMIC (coming)

*Injectors / Fuel pump / PowerFC (next stage)

*Bigger turbo (future)

i think that correctly sized is the key with a FMIC. No point going for a massive drag cooler on std turbo, but if you are serious about a bigger turbo and taking tuning a bit further, then it is a worthwhile investment.

[dojobi]

My HKS Type S cooler isn't too big, and the car felt way better to drive after putting it on. I also feel safer driving it on hotter days and not having to worry about detonation.

The pod - well I thought I had to do it when I got the FMIC cos the piping was in the way (it turns out you can use a GTR intake instead), but anyway, the pod sounds good and mine's all boxed up with a cold air feed. It didn't really feel any different I suppose, but then again who can feel a few kw's difference

[Chef_32]

Speed Magazine this month(?) had a section on modding rb25det

with kits for various price ranges from various performance workshops. It also gives the approx output for each kit.... very handy...

[rev210]

this speed magazine doesn't tell you how much 'faster' the RB25DET cars were after mods does it?

[Ronin 09]

nope, just a approx rwkW gain

[rev210]

Should produce a whole new range of 'experts' then that magazine issue.

Did they at least mention the lightweight flywheel and front pulleys?

[Ronin 09]

didn't really read the article too clearly, but i don't remember the lightenened flywheel / pulleys... i think it was just a generic exhaust, filter i/c, computer etc etc

not so much tricks and stuff that the ppl on this forum would be aware of

[craz0]

I'm in the same boat only had the Sky for a couple of months, first thing I'm modding "other then the Jamex panel filter I got of Sydneykid" is the suspension, I've ordered the shocks and springs which should be here next week, then I'll do the bushes, sways, pineapples and strut brace.

After that then I'll look at doing the full exhaust, auto trans oil cooler, SAFC-II, AVC-R and maybe a small FMIC.

The only problem I have is that it's a auto, so changing the ECU is a bit of a bitch but I don't want to go to far with it anyway my wife mainly drives it, plus the auto's don't like to much power.

Then somewhere in there I'll do the stereo as well.

[rev210]

craz0,

the auto can be rebuilt stronger , with a high stall too perhaps. Wait till it blows up. The Wolf 3d can be used on an auto I believe.