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Flushing Radiator And Cooling System.

ak_stylez

By ak_stylez,
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ak_stylez Community Regular

ak_stylez

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hey everyone,

looked under my radiator cap about 5 months after having installed a new alloy radiator, and the coolant has turned from a nice clean green to a dirty brown. the state of the coolant was quite poor (even worse) before i replaced the radiator, and at the time we only flushed the system with water. My mechanic said the rusty water might return until i flushed it thoroughly with one of those radiator flush cleaner things from supacheap.

so, now its time to do just that. i had a look at some threads via search, and also a copy of the manual i found on the internet.

before getting started, i just wanted to make sure I had everything I needed.

here's a list of things i'll need that i compiled from both the manual and various threads:

coolant (about 10L)

coolant flush

sealing agent to coat the cylinder block drain plug thread (referred to as: three bond 1386B in the manual.)

car jack/ramp. I'm thinking a trolley jack, will probably come in handy time and time again. anyone know how much a good one costs?

car stands to put under the car once raised

copper washer (to replace upon refitting) for the air release plug near intake plenum. (anyone know what size??)

plus things I already have:

socket set

basic tools, eg spanners, screw drivers, pocket knives etc etc.

as i'm a bit of a novice when it comes to working on my car, i'd really appreciate any tips or advice people can offer. i plan on taking photos and making a thorough DIY for this forum.

have i left anything out that i'll need?

and a few specific questions i have already. where exactly is the jacking point for the front of the car using a trolley jack? the picture in the manual is not too clear. also where is the block drain plug for the coolant? left or right side of block? i don't wanna confuse it with say... the oil plug and drain the wrong system!

ahhh sorry for the long winded thread. thanks for any help :pwned:

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Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

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I'd say the Rb25 block is the same as the RB26 block so the drain plugs are on the right side of the engine (drivers side). I cant guarantee you will be able to get to them though. If not dont worry too much just make sure you back flusht he radiator and flush the whole system including the heater core. I have personally written up a few threads on good techniques of how to properly flush the cooling system so hopefully you found them.

Jack the front of the car off the cross member. Its the very solid looking black piece of steel that runs accross the beneath the engine.

Deren

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ak_stylez Community Regular

ak_stylez

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Hey thanks for all the replies everyone :P

I went to supacheap and the cheapest (only) trolley jack they had was for $180. A bit more than I was expecting...

also, does anyone know what size washer is needed for the air bleed valve near the intake manifold? the manual doesn't mention a size, just that it should be replaced.

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Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

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Its easy to get to so just re-use the washer and if (most likely wont) it leaks then you can replace it at a later time. Im sure it would only be a couple of bucks from Nissan. Everyone makes Nissan out to be rip off merchants but i can guarantee i have bought more parts from Nissan than anyone else here in my ground up build. I have found that common things can be bought for quite cheap. Sometimes you get a nice surprise and others i'll have to admit you get a nasty shock. However in my mind unless its performance aftermarket gear, nothing beats genuine for quality.

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Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

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Reusing the stock copper washers are fine unless its been crushed from being overtightened. You'll see the bearing area if it has been once you pull it out

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  • 3 weeks later...
skylne77 Newbie

skylne77

Posted
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hey everyone,

looked under my radiator cap about 5 months after having installed a new alloy radiator, and the coolant has turned from a nice clean green to a dirty brown. the state of the coolant was quite poor (even worse) before i replaced the radiator, and at the time we only flushed the system with water. My mechanic said the rusty water might return until i flushed it thoroughly with one of those radiator flush cleaner things from supacheap.

so, now its time to do just that. i had a look at some threads via search, and also a copy of the manual i found on the internet.

before getting started, i just wanted to make sure I had everything I needed.

here's a list of things i'll need that i compiled from both the manual and various threads:

coolant (about 10L)

coolant flush

sealing agent to coat the cylinder block drain plug thread (referred to as: three bond 1386B in the manual.)

car jack/ramp. I'm thinking a trolley jack, will probably come in handy time and time again. anyone know how much a good one costs?

car stands to put under the car once raised

copper washer (to replace upon refitting) for the air release plug near intake plenum. (anyone know what size??)

plus things I already have:

socket set

basic tools, eg spanners, screw drivers, pocket knives etc etc.

as i'm a bit of a novice when it comes to working on my car, i'd really appreciate any tips or advice people can offer. i plan on taking photos and making a thorough DIY for this forum.

have i left anything out that i'll need?

and a few specific questions i have already. where exactly is the jacking point for the front of the car using a trolley jack? the picture in the manual is not too clear. also where is the block drain plug for the coolant? left or right side of block? i don't wanna confuse it with say... the oil plug and drain the wrong system!

ahhh sorry for the long winded thread. thanks for any help ;)

you know u can take your car to a radiator specialist, and he will do all that and more and it will be cheaper than what its going to cost you, my water was rusty aswell a few years back, you have to make sure you put in enough coolant, but also not to much, and you will need to do this every 2-3 weeks, until all the rust is cleaned out,i reccomend u take the radiator out and get the hose in from the bottom, you have to make sure all the shitty rust is out, i did 4 radiator changes in a space of two months, and the last one i took it to a radiator bloke, he changed a few things, high power flush, and new coolant, never had a problem since, he charged me around $85.00

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R338OY Veteran

R338OY

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Posted

Good on you for giving it a go mate. You'll learn heaps.

You can jack the car up from the cross member (strongest place) directly beneath the motor, or i sometimes jack it from the towing points (big chunky oval bits sticking down on either side of the engine) when i'm in a rush.

Also don't use water to flush anything as it causes the system to rust (bet you've already read that though)

Otherwise you've covered everything. Get stuck into it, take your time, and looking forward to the tutorial ;)

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