Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan

Model: R32 4 door

Milage: 90xxx on car, 67xxx on the engine

Transmission: RB25det manual box

Colour: Mazda Red

Location: Adelaide Hills SA

Complied? Yes

RWC supplied? N/A

Currently registered? yes, 3 months

Price: $20,000 ono $18,000

Contact: Email on MY EMAIL or PM me

Mods as follows

Suspension

-HSD HR Coilovers with 7 kg front and 5 kg rear springs

-R33 front LCA's

-Tein Castor rods

-new upper control arm bushes

-Rack spacers

-Cradle bushes + pineapples + cradle mods

-Driftshop Rear Camber arms

-Driftshop Traction rods

-Driftshop Hicas Lock bar

Engine + Drivetrain

-Series 1 RB25det with low km's, in awesome condition and serviced every 3 months, it doesnt get driven much really. Motor is faultless and has perfect compression, no smoke etc. Producing 280 rwkw on 17 psi boost

-Remapped RB20 ecu

-264 Cams

-ISC Cam gears

-S15 injectors

-FMIC kit (generic kind)

-GT 3071R turbo

-Exedy 5 puck Clutch with GTR pressure plate

-AM Performance engine cover

-RB25det gearbox + custom tailshaft

-Fully rebuilt 4.3 diff with rebuilt (1 month ago) Tomei Trax 2 way lsd

-conversion has been done properly, and as such, everything works

-no air con

-oil cooler and relocator kit

-Bosch motorsport 600 hp external fuel pump

-Malpassi rising rate FPR

Body/interior

-Painted by All Type Crash in Mazda Red

-Origin rear bar, Final Konnexxtion Skirts and Fibreglass GTR front bar with genuine lip and N1 Air intake slots with modified GTST bonnet

-front and rear guards flared professionally to allow wide offset wheels

-Bride seat - has wear but thats unavoidable

-Nardi 330mm steering wheel

-DRFT gauges with some Jap boost gauge

-has back seats and belts, along with child restraints etc, some rear trip pieces are missing but they arnt too hard to find these days.

-Blue LED dash

Wheels/Tyres

-Work Emotion XD9's in 17X9.5 +17 all round

-Maxxis MAZ - 1 on front, near new

-Neuton NT5000 on rear 50% tread

Extra info

-Car will be sold with 3 months SA rego

-Chassis is straight and accident free, i have had a few mindor panel rubs while drifting on the track but this has been panel damage only and all parts have been repaired professionally

-car is 100% reliable mechanically, i look after it well and do a lot of preventive maintenance, as such there are a lot of things that have been replaced on the car to bring it up to standard

-This is one quick car, and the traction is awesome, with 280 rwkw it moves and when taking off from a stand still it briefly wheel spins 1st then just grips in 2nd and 3rd and absolutely HAULS. There is no reason why this couldn't be a street driven car... i drove it around for 3 months every day as my daily but i got sick of the bucket seat. If i had a stock seat i prob would have kept driving it in comfort :laugh:

-Lots of time and effort has gone into the suspension set up in it, its a highly competitive car on the track, but regardless, its well set up to have fun, just hop in and drive it!

-Dont be put off by the fact that this car has been driven hard, its built tough and tuned even tougher! Call my Tuner Jeff from The Speed Lab if you have any tune related questions.

-All stickers will be off the car except for the All Type Crash stickers.

-I dont have any current pics of it with the GTR bar yet, just the old Vertex bar.

Thats about it, im sure ive forgotten shit but most of its there, Massive thanks to the people who have helped out with this car!

I will consider swaps. After a 34 4 door with mods, if you think you have something suitable pm me.

Price is Negotiable. I am after 18K as the car is atm, However In the next few weeks i will take the turbo off and put a good condition RB25 stock turbo on, which will then be retuned to get the 220 rwkw i was on before the turbo upgrade.

I would take $15K for the car with stock turbo, 220 rwkw, a generic 3 inch jap exhaust, some other 17 inch wheels (not the XD9's) and stock cams and cam gears.

Pm me to work out a deal!

94257497plpz3ele080315gxl1.th.jpg

heres a pic, no rear bar on ATM, but you get the general idea.

Will be doing a nice photo shoot once bar is on and car is all cleaned up.

p4120144sw3.jpg

p4120148ke8.jpg

Edited by Simon-R32

sorta been watching the progress of this car get to where it is as i plan on taking a similar route with my 32. By watching i mean standing there drinking bourbon and watching simon bust his guts doing ALL the mechanical work himself. Good way to learn i might say.

Simon is fussy, pedantic and an absolute wanker when it comes to his car. if it isnt right, it isnt finished, simple as that.

Whoever gets it gets a jump in, drive off drift car. yet again.. simple as that.

Its proven itself as a slide car and needs a pilot as crazy as simon.

Somebody buy it, and make some smoke..

Cheers

Christian

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...