Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

please for the love of god.. dont have it running untill you replace those stock r32 turbos.. they will let go on you easily

haha i just wanna break engine with them, i am not gunna try to squeeze milk from a rock !! for the water return lines could i use something like this

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_plugins/z...t=22&cat=11

Edited by stricnynel0s
Big power TT rb25 I had years ago. Photos are recent taken from the current owner, ignor the dust/dirt. New owner ditched AFM and went Djeto Power FC.

Oil and water lines were custom. Low mounted as it was more "stealth". Manifolds were factory cast GTR items that has the flange's cut off and re welded to suit the rb25 stud pattern.

Oversized forged pistons

Fully balanced

O ringed block

Major head work - Huge ports, a/m valves and springs ect ect

275 HKS cams

Custom cam gears

Greddy plenum

Q45 throttle body

100mm+ thick FMIC

GreddyBOV

Power FC

HKS 2530 turbos - Had them rebuilt using larger HKS 2535 wheels

HKS dumps

3inch front pipes

HKS 4inch super dragger exhaust

1000cc Sard injectors

300zx AFM (Might have been Q45, can't remeber)

Apexi pod filter

3/8 fuel lines

Malpassi fuel regulator

enginebay.jpg

fprfilterrelocate.jpg

fprfilterbatteryrelocate.jpg

pipesandfilterstoturbos.jpg

Wow,

Very nice engine bay - I take it the new owner's had it sitting in his dirty garage for years?

You didn't post up a power figure, or even better a dyno chart?? Would love to know what it made!

Cheers

Wow,

Very nice engine bay - I take it the new owner's had it sitting in his dirty garage for years?

You didn't post up a power figure, or even better a dyno chart?? Would love to know what it made!

Cheers

Yeh, the current owner works in the mines or something and is never home, he is on the forums, no doubt he’ll come across this thread soon enough and be able to fill you in on all the little changes.

My under standing is, it hasn’t been driven in over 2 years, or close too and has just been sitting in the shed.

I don’t have dyno sheet, or wouldn’t know where to put my hands on one, sold that car way back in 03` or 04`.

There might be one in the zoom mag write up. I think it was number 33.

The hp figures however where 600rwhp on c16 with 1.8bar IIRC and 10.8 @ 128mph at Willowbank

also i had the same idea with the r32 turbos, now have 4 dead ones sitting in the shed.. they just didnt like being removed and put on a different car. i assume they need to be kept full of oil while off which i certainly didnt do. after fitting turbos, rebuilt the motor after bottom end noise, then the built motor was fine but turbos were shite...

so now i have fitted the turbos i initially wanted to after around 2k km's on noisy non-boosting half-blown r33 turbos. soooo much shaft play

but yeah lots of turbos in the shed looks cool? lol

also i had the same idea with the r32 turbos, now have 4 dead ones sitting in the shed.. they just didnt like being removed and put on a different car. i assume they need to be kept full of oil while off which i certainly didnt do. after fitting turbos, rebuilt the motor after bottom end noise, then the built motor was fine but turbos were shite...

so now i have fitted the turbos i initially wanted to after around 2k km's on noisy non-boosting half-blown r33 turbos. soooo much shaft play

but yeah lots of turbos in the shed looks cool? lol

is that the heater core hose ? and which one the top one or the bottom one ? since my car is lhd its all the way on the other side lol ohh well i will do it, its just a barb fitting from the turbo to an6 line at thet cross bracket ?

you might be better off doing same thing in the ottom radiator hose then, that might still be in the right spot? lol

thats worse lol !! i was thinking of returning the water to here http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_plugins/z...t=22&cat=11 ir maybe even the heatercore

if i use that air water seperator, i could do the two lines to the two intake nipples on it and the return nipple to the water nipple at the water neck on intake side

  • 2 weeks later...

would it be more cost effective adapting the rb26 head to the rb25 block? how about the intercooler did you have to ditch your old one or did you customise the old one?

for example if i had twin turbos on an rb25 (lets say both can make 500hp combined power) stock displacement and all and if you put that side by side with an rb25 sporting a 2.8L kit and a 500hp turbo (single) which would be more responsive??????????

for example if i had twin turbos on an rb25 (lets say both can make 500hp combined power) stock displacement and all and if you put that side by side with an rb25 sporting a 2.8L kit and a 500hp turbo (single) which would be more responsive??????????

Assuming compression ratio is the same id put my money on the 2.8 with a single.

I would have thought the RB26 would be more resposive; larger displacement, better flowing head with larger cams, 6 throttle intake etc. Only down side i can see is the RB26 having a lower compression ratio. However surely a RB25 would still be slightly laggier with twins? Any one that has experienced both cars know?

I have a 420ish bhp RB25DETT in a RS13 which I built a few years ago. Very linear power delivery. Used R32 GTR standard turbos. Spools about 250rpm faster than my R32GTR and produces better power.

The only thing I prefer over the RB25 is the RB26's throttle response which is better but the 25 spooled earlier and generally felt more zippy which I attributed to the the NVCS and higher compression.

Change the pistons though, my number 1 piston broke up after two years/30,000 miles of being hammered.

Hickstead2004%2002small.jpg

I was thinking that the water return for the turbos could be routed around the front of the engine

to a fitting in the thermostat housing.

Has anyone tried this?

On second thought why wouldn't you just tee them together and use the exhisting return for the factory return.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...