Jump to content
SAU Community

Hey Guys I Been To Every Forum So Far About This And Haven't Had Any Help.. Can You Guys Please Help Me And Tell Me Whats Wrong With My Wiring.


Recommended Posts

Today i did some fooling around with different maf sensors..

today i took the n60 mafs off and out. I went and re-installed my stock rb20 mafs.

When i had the rb20 mafs wired up my car started right up with no starting fluid and started smooth but my idle was still high and now it started smoking black!!!

so i took the rb20 maf out and went back to the n60 mafs.

n60 mafs car wouldn't start without spraying starting fluid but once started and running i noticed the n60 mafs my car will not smoke black.

so one last time i went and re-installed the stock rb20 mafs again and car started right up smooth but was smoking black again..

and also while car running...

car running unpluggin the n60 mafs car will stall out....

car running unpluggin the rb20 mafs car will not stall out.

so what is going on guys? am I wiring my mafs wrong or something???

ecu is still not throwing any codes other than 55.

ok and this i just found out with some searching...

it seems lik when running the rb20 afm i just found out my rb20 maf is using a rb25 series 2 pigtail haress which i found out the colors are

White with Blue Trace - Ground

Orange with Black Trace- Signal

Black with White Trace - 12v Power

which tells me that is a series 2 rb25 pigtail afm

sooo hrmm yeah my rb20 maf is using a rb25 series 2 pigtail so sonmething is wrong.

so i'm guessing i wired something wrong.. Can you guys help me clear this up?

Edited by hcr32sky240sx

sounds like you're running the wrong maf/afm then

rb20 ones have a green label on them with 4 wires

i have the right mafs its green label its j60 which is rb20 but the if u reaad my post.. the problem

my pigtail is an rb25 series 2 and the wire colors do not match.."

so bascilly all i want to know is how to wire the pigtal to my rb20 mafs harness..

is that so hard???

and yes its stock ecu

You cant use other AFM's without changing the VQ table in your ECU - i.e. the voltages are scaled differently

R32 AFM is the same as R33 S1 AFM

Wire A - Not Connected

Wire B - Signal

Wire C - 12v Ground

Wire D - Signal Ground

Wire E - 12v Power

R33 S2 AFM is the same size and calibration as the other two

White with Blue Trace - Ground

Orange with Black Trace - Signal

Black with White Trace - 12v Power

Hope that helps

Im sorry but what motor is it RB20, RB25 or RB26? and what ECU is it?

I ask because it sounds like one of those AFMs worked, one was right for start up but too rich for normal running and the other the opposite, if the second one ran properly it may be the start up componants maybe faulty, check the ACC valve etc (I say etc because there are others that I cant remember ATM)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • this thread delivers, once again Skyline owners, our cars spend more time off the road than on the road  
    • Some of the stuff the PDR guys in the states pull is amazing too. Instead of drilling a hole. They crank some insane tension into it. I actually DIY built a pulling bar myself that I used to pull the Subarus front end out with. About an hour's work, a bit of 30mm *3mm shs, and a piece of 5mm thick plate. Worked great!   But I vote replace it with a GTR rad support. And not going to lie, I'll laugh if a GTR rad support doesn't fit a GTt...
    • Sorry, that was with regards to the rather pretzeled corner of the reo bar. It's in such a state over the years that drilling a hole is probably preferable to bothering to unbolt the thing 
    • No need to drill any holes. There's plenty of access to reach through and behind all of that steel to "push" from behind with a pulling action on the slide hammer. There's all sorts of attachments you can screw on the end of them.
    • Yea the photos aren't the best. When I was pulling the bumper and headlights out there was a bodyshop guy looking on for it, there is a slight bend behind where the passenger headlight is, but we're talking a few MM and there is a little bit of a bend for the reo. That said it's supposedly well within the "Drill a hole in it and pull it out with a slide hammer to be close enough" and be on our way. The other option is to buy a GTR reo for the GTR bumper bits but this is a $2000+ fix for something Mr Hammer can probably do 99% of the job for and everything will/can line up pretty closely-to-good-enough.
×
×
  • Create New...